The Magic Bus
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The Road Chose Me Volume 2: Three years and 54,000 miles around Africa
The Magic Bus was a place I had dreamed of visiting since I first saw the movie and read the Jon Krakauer book, “Into The Wild”. I think of it as a pilgrimage made by those who have felt some kind of connection with Chris McCandless and his story. Most people don’t realize the bus lies on the well known “Stampede Trail”, not all that far from civilization and can be reached in a solid day of hiking.
The Stampede Trail is fifty miles of rough, overgrown mining road that was abandoned in 1963. No bridges were ever constructed over the several rivers it crosses so it is primarily used by backcountry travelers on foot, bicycle, snow machine and motorcycle. The now infamous Fairbanks City Transit bus #142 was left behind by the Yutan Construction Company during the road building to serve as a backcountry shelter for hunters, trappers and ranger patrols.
Typical conditions on the Stampede Trail
I met two cool Austrian characters, Thomas and (roll the ‘R’) Roland on the Dalton Highway and it took all of 10 seconds to convince them to join me on a trip to ‘The Bus’. We were able to drive about 12.5 miles down Stampede Road before we had to leave the vehicles behind and continue on foot. The first hour and a half of hiking the next morning saw us travel on a really good quad trail, through some small swaps, through a couple of shin-deep river crossings and spat us out at the edge of the Teklinika River.
Ultimately, the ‘Tek’ was Chris’ downfall when he was unable to cross it and return to civilization, forcing him back to the bus. Although it was not the raging torrent Emile Hirsch faced in the movie, it was obvious we would be swept off our feet and downstream if we did not keep our heads about us.
We ummmed and arrred for quite a while and wandered upstream, where we had been told the river was wider and shallower. Once we got sick of our aimless wandering, Thomas picked a spot and after throwing in rocks and using sticks to measure the depth we all agreed it was our best chance. We tentatively forded one at a time, with our packs un-buckled so we could ditch them if we were to get swept in. It’s a shame you can’t see my face in any of the photos – I was more than a bit scared when it reached mid-thigh in depth and began to really push hard. Slow and steady won through and I was relieved to be on the other side. Roland came powering across like he was on a mission and in a voice that was too much Arnie to be true beamed “Bah, dat was easy”.
Crossing the mighty Teklinika River
Thomas and Roland are fitness machines and once we were back on the trail I was quickly left in their dust, alone with my thoughts. Chris must have felt such a sense of isolation and awe to be all the way out here, alone, not knowing if there was anything or anyone ahead. At times I yelled into the alder and clapped my hands, trying to avoid startling any neighborhood bears. At times I sang aloud and at times I was silently reflecting – I was actually going to the bus, the bus that Chris had spent four months living in, was essentially trapped in and finally died in. Wow.
When bus 142 appeared on the side of the trail, seemingly out of thin air I was quite startled. I’d been hiking on my own for 10 miles but somehow wasn’t ready to be there yet. I paused on the edge of the clearing for a moment, then again in the doorway, trying to take everything in. Even though I’d never been there before, it was very familiar – from the description in the book, the movie and also from the pictures I’ve seen online.
The front of The Magic Bus
I thought The Magic Bus would be a quiet, sad place to spend time – I was quite surprised to find the opposite was the case.
The stove and bed of The Magic Bus
It’s customary for visitors to inscribe their name on the wall of the bus and write a message in the “Guest Book” – a book placed in the bus by Chris’ sister Carine. There were hundreds, maybe even thousands of exhilarating messages from people all over the world who had made the trek out to the bus. People wrote about how upon hearing Chris’ story they changed their lives so they could live their dreams, people wrote of hitching thousands of miles to be there, people wrote about how beautiful of a place Chris had found. Graffiti like ‘Solo trek to honor Chris’ and ‘Swept downstream by Tek, it was worth it’ made me grin from ear to ear – Chris has inspired thousands of people and and I was thrilled to be a part of that.
Jon Krakauer’s message in the book
My message in the Guest Book captures my feelings:
You have inspired more people than you will ever know, not least of all me.
Your passion, courage and determination gave me the strength to believe I really can make my dreams come true.
And here I am, in Alaska, having been to the Arctic Ocean, on my way to South America.
Thankyou Chris.
Christopher McCandless Plaque
I spent many quiet hours in the bus, reading the walls and the many guest books.
Although I hunted high and low I could not find any writing from Chris himself – it seems they have all faded away over the years.
A quote by Thoreau on The Magic Bus
It was truly and amazing experience and all three of us couldn’t stop grinning and talking of adventures to come the entire hike back.
Roland Dan & Thomas at The Magic Bus
My hair is all wrong and my beard is not nearly long enough, but you get the idea:
Dan at The Magic Bus
-Dan
If you’ve just stumbled onto my site, I encourage you to have a look around and read more about my 2 year expedition from Alaska to Argentina and my 3 year expedition all the way around Africa.
Hey you had lots of great information, just a question though. i’m going out to the bus in mid july and i’m plannig the trip. how long on foot do you think it would take to get to the bus, we are fairly swift hikers, especially with such an amazing goal on our mind. total hour would be great if you have a guess.
Hey Eric, We drove a long way up stampede road in our 4x4s and hiked in a single day. It was around 16miles of easyish hiking, only crossing the Tek slowed us down.
If you don’t have a vehicle to drive in very far, most people do the hike in two days.
Good luck & I’d love to hear how your trip turns out.
-Dan
Hi,
My name is Martin and I live in Buenos Aires, Argentina (not a Wild-Landscape in particular!).
I can’t offer you a wild-experience in Buenos Aires, but I can offer you a sightseeing tour through the city and a beer if you like!
Mail me if you decide to come to the South (i´ll be in the south-east asia from june to sept so if you happen to come here at that time I’m sorry! jeje).
So.. cheers! Hope you have a great trip!
Fellow traveller…
P.s.: As you can see my english is not that good !
Hey Martin,
Thank you for the fantastic offer. I don’t know if I’ll go to BA yet, but if I do I’ll send you an email for sure
You’re English is much better than my Spanish
Thanks for this great blog.
Thank you for posting this. I want to visit the bus since Chris is a huge hero of mine and I wanna know how I can plan this. I wanna go in a year or so during mid-August and I will be flying in from Florida, so I just wonder where the Stampede Trail is in distance from the nearest main airport and if crossing the Teklinika River can be accomplished at that time of year.
Thank you so much,
-Natalie
Hey Natalie,
Read through all the comments here, I’ve given that information many, many times.
I also want to stress you need to be very experiences in back country wilderness travel, this is not a trip for first-timers.
-Dan
Me grazy finnish guy have travelled unplanned and also moneyless,been in deadly dangers that I could have avoided easily.It was my youth,I survived..though sometimes I think I should have taken it deeper,and longer,I might think to be a looser because not suffered more.Im proud of my travelling years.I learned and experienced greatly.Diaries and drawings and travelling principally alone are great things..and books,hammock,nature,other travellers,one way tickets.No clock nor schedule.Noone here understood my experiences,I didnt even try to explain,Im not explainer. I dont have a career,I have love ones,no worries.
I learned:one is not dying for hunger when people around,I call it God.I was about to go into the wild from Vancouver B.C,but didnt,I thought its too big for me.I have been very ill(only diarrhoa),and died soon if water,salt and bananas been further than 30 meters.
If McCandless would survived I would blame myself of being a chicken.He died, I cried.
By his age I had been allready in..doesnt matter,main thing is going,not destination.
I read 30 min of how to sleep in the snow before I went to do so for days,and Im not specially intelligent.
Compass,maps,medicine etc not necessary,NOT BEFORE EMERGENCY.
-Finn
hello Dan, its nice theres a blog that can inspire ppl to travel, i myself wanna feel that rush of getting up one morning and saying stuff it and choose a road to life….i’m 28 male and traveling has always been a part of my life…yeah i travel, but its nothing like ur traveling…thats what i wanna experience, the air from an other country, the sunrise and sunset on the beach in mancora, peru, watch a soccer game in rio de janeiro (luv soccer)….not caring about time or tomorrow….well my biggest problem is i dont have any one to join me. so my questions are as fallow:
1. how much money do you need?
2. do you travel with a partner or if alone how do you do that?
3. how do you choose you’re destinations?
4. how do you do with money…i mean do you carry all ur money with you or travel checks
5. wat equipment do you need for traveling if u don’t have a car and have to do it on foot…
well i do appreciate ur time and hope you can help the future traveler….
you’re friend,
aldo
Hey Aldo,
It really is an amazing feeling to really get out there and go for it. I don’t even have a watch anymore so the time and date are completely irrelevant in my life.
Money really depends on how you want to live – hotels and buying every meal money will not last too long. Camping and cooking every meal can really help you stretch. I’ll be writing a lot more about my budget / money when the trip is done.
I’m traveling alone on this one, which has it’s ups and downs for sure. Lately I’ve been pretty lonely, so I’m going to try hard to get another backpacker to jump in with me for a while.
My destinations come from all over the place; other travelers, guide books (lonely planet), locals, etc. Anytime I hear someone say a place is worth going to, I go there
For money ATMs work just fine. My debit card and credit card have worked fine in every single country.
Start reading around the web about backpacking. Just load your stuff into a pack, catch a flight somewhere and you’re away. You really don’t need much at all and the Lonely Planet for whatever country is a great starting point.
Hope all of that helps – let me know when/where you decide to go!
thanx dan, and hope you’re traveling is going as wished….
youre,
friend, aldo
Chris is my hero. I love the guy. The guy is a fricken genius. If he were alive now I would probably make him my prom date (LOL).He had the courage of a lion despite how much problems he had in his life. Knowing he passed on feeling complete in this world is extremely comforting. His ambitiousness, courage, and passion will forever amaze me. If there was anything I would like to say to the man it would be that he was a very good man and will surely be missed forever. GOD BLESS YOU CHRIS!!!!!
After watching the film “Into the Wild” I too will soon depart on my adventure down Stampede Trail. I would appreciate some advice on how best to navigate the river once I reach the end of the trail. In addition, please list any items I will definitely require to make this journey.
Thank you very much for your help !!
Hey Michael – great to hear you have also been inspired by the movie.
How much back country hiking experience do you have? It’s important you have a lot before tackling the stampede trail, it’s not a little walk in the woods so to speak.
Have a read through all the replies I’ve posted here and you should get a pretty good idea of what’s involved.
If you have any specific questions I’m very happy to help out, though I hope you have the skills needed to plan the trip yourself.
-Dan
Dan’s question- How much back country hiking experience do you have? I served in the military for 20 years. However, have not ventured out in the wild for about 3 years. I will begin to take long walks 2 to 5 miles and work up to 10 soon. In addition, I will do some mountain climbing prior to this 25 plus mile journey down stampede trail.
Any other suggestions Dan?
Hey Michael,
I think I have an ´intermediate´ amount of backcountry experience, whatever that means. I have done probably about 10 hiking trips in the 3-8 day range and about 30 or 40 for one or two nights. I have had numerous bear encounters, camped well below zero, crossed rivers and dealt with serous elevation changes.
I would suggest spending time out in the wild – sleep in your tent, light a fire with wet wood and hike around with your full pack on.
hey,ahm you know what guys,,this so very inspiring story about mccandless, I’m just sitting on the couch, change the channel and there watch the story about him..that is my second time to watch that movie,but I can never forget. I don’t know can’t help watching.after watching I search in his life and all in the net where I found this and share my thoughts about the movie..
I’m just 16 yrs.old..wandering if I can also travel around the globe.but never in wild ones..I called mccandless stupid for leaving his home just to get suffered,I don’t want to do that..but as I go beyond the story..I’m touched, his happy, and he said happiness only real when shared..its true..I can see how life is so wonderful..with the people around us,but sometimes I just want to goof off,just like what he did, to forget how life seems to be hard and weary..someday I wanna travel but afraid of being alone..afraid to end up like him..sad..
my question is,he has his journal..I wonder where it is..can you post some pictures of it, and quote of what he wrote in it?please thanks..
Hey Katleen. As far as I know, Chris´diary has never been made public, though it´s something I am always on the lookout for. Good luck with your future adventures, I am sure you will find the right mix of adventure and solitude.
Dan, do you recommend I venture this solo? Thanks.
Many people certainly do. I did not. The river crossing and bear enconuters would be my biggest concerns.
well. then thanks Dan, good luck to you too..
we will have an RV and now thinkin of renting mountain bikes to start down the trail to the bus. Do you think the bikes would shave time off the trip? How rough is the trail for a bike? We will take the RV as far as we can then bike till we cant then hoof it. Also what town do we head out from?
Hey Sly,
Stampede Road, and the trail head out from just near Healy, just North of Denali Nat. Park.
I read a blog somewhere once where a guy took bikes to save time on the trip.. for sure it will help. There will be times you cant ride them, but dont be discouraged, further along you will cruise and save a ton of time.
If you can get them across the river, they will help greatly on the far side. Most of the trail there is a really good condition quad track from memory.
Good Luck, Id love to head how it works out.
Dan,
Do you recommend taking an air horn along to scare away bears and wolves?
Thanks.
A can of bear spray is highly recommended for sure.
Hey guys, I was very inspired by the book and movie “into the wild” read and watched both severel times and I have to say alot of the quotes are true to life. One day i plan on taking the trip, i myself am not a fan of the city life and I would be much happier living in the wild. I currently live in what i call hell (the middle of arkansas) and I hate it. Im not a big fan of hot weather and thats another reason why i will choose alaska (the climate) I thank you guys and its great to see this much love!
Hope to hear from ya!
Ted,
If you ever come up to Alaska look me up. I live only 2 hours north of Stampede Trail.
Thanks and good luck making it out of Arkansas!
Mike
“So many people live within unhappy circumstances and yet will not take the initiative to change their situation because they are conditioned to a life of security, conformity, and conservatism, all of which may appear to give one peace of mind, but in reality nothing is more dangerous to the adventurous spirit within a man than a secure future.” -Chris McCandless
Wow, what a fantastic adventure you had! Thanks for sharing your experience!
In reading all the comments, I see that Chris McCandless has become somewhat of a folk hero. I have read the book. I began to wonder what was Chris’s true reasons for leaving. It was sad that Chris starved to death. He deserved a different fate.
Without doubt, there are those that idolize Chris and his message of get out there and live life, myself included.
I would love to get my hands on his actual diary some day, it’s something I’m still working on
-Dan
is it easy to acquire a gun or rifle in Alaska to plan a trip to the bus
I have no idea, I only took bear spray (pepper spray) for bear protection.
I’m sure a google search will tell you the requirements for gun ownership in Alaska.
Alexander Supertramp is a real hero to me and did what not many people can do, he lived his dreams and those fanatics who call his adventure a suicide can never understand it, someday i will also voyage to a unmapped unventured location and live my life.
Hi! I don’t speak very well, but i try!
I was searching on various sites on the story of Chris and see if it really exists … the magic bus and ended up arriving at your site. I was very happy and said to myself that one day I’ll visit there …. he became my idol!
Hugs
Hello Dan,
I’m a young woman living in the french Alps, where I teach litterature and spend all my free time in the nature.We’re planning to go to Alaska next year for hiking, that’s how I felt on your page, just surfing on the net.I just wanted to add two words on the “Christopher’s case”.I was of course really moved reading Krakauer’s book and watching the movie, but I’ve been feeling so sad since…I understand his choice of living by him self, in the woods, but I ‘ve more understood that he wanted to go back at the end, to “share ” what ever kind of happiness life would give him…Maybe I”m to old (i’ll be 34 this year…) maybe it’s because I’ve been recently a mother (our daughter is now 1 year old and will join our trip to Alaska…), but I see things otherwise.I think people should be happy to travel with pals, share nice moments together and enjoy the experience .That’s how I feel.I’m glad to read your lines and see that you actually shared that experience with others.I guess that Mac Candless must have felt very lonely at the end of his journey.In fact, what really was worth was all the people he met on the way long to the Magic Bus.Every one can reach out for his “own magic bus anywhere”.The most important , is then the trail you follow, and to know the way back.Even Thoreau came back=) Take care.
Hi Irene, Great to hear from you & thanks very much for sharing your thoughts.
I have to agree with you, and I think Chirs’ quote sums this up nicely:
-Dan
Hey Dan, I made the trip! It was fun and we had a ball. Did it in two days. Hiked one day out, camped in the bus and next day hiked back to 8 mile lake. Thanks again for your insight
Fantastic! Thanks for the info.
Really happy to hear you made it and had a great time!
I think it’s sad to see people get all upright and ANGRY over Christopher. Calling it suicide and whatnot. Well maybe it is but sheesh man you people need to go easy on the dissing. You make it sound like you’re perfection at it’s source, and furthermore like nobody has the right to be imperfect. Do you hate the world? How about attempting to understand someone without using your divining rod? Can you be objective? Well, I was moved by the movie. I would like to think I understand some of Christopher but maybe I’m way off, but what’s salient here is that I’m not rubbing what I think in your face. But I do not think he had a death wish at all.
Beautiful. Your message to Chris is so heartfelt.
I hope one day I can make the trip to Alaska, and see what Chris saw and feel what he felt, but unfortunately I live in London, UK!
Still, we can dream (:
Dream, for sure! If you want, you’ll get there.
I too live in London Niamh and I made it to Argentina for Christmas with Dan. Go and get it!
Its a Shame Chris had to die out in the wilderness the way he did. I can’t help but wonder if he suffered from some sort of untreated mental disorder. He was running away from something, real or maybe just in his mind. I have to wonder if he was ever in treatment for any mental disorders in the past. Just the fact that he left not telling his parents or sister after graduating from College sends up a big red flag for me. No one could have stopped him from a year of self exploration before Law school but he did it in a way of covert secrecy that just isn’t “normal”. Was it his way to punish his parents? Was it his way to punish himself or both? No matter how you want to look at it its a very sad story of a vital life that was wasted whatever the reason was. In the end Chris gained nothing passing away in a bus in the Alaska wilderness and his family will endure a lifetime of pain from his actions. Let’s not forget this was a College graduate not some snot nosed kid without knowledge of what can happen to someone inexperienced out in the wild. I feel bad for him that he didn’t get the professional help he needed to deal with his demons. He chose the wrong path in more ways than one. Hopefully he is at peace now and Hopefully his family can move on and try to lead a normal life ahead.
Hey Ross,
Many people see Chris’ story from the same point of view as you, and I can totally see why, though I disagree with your premise.
Somewhere along the line we decided that the point of life is to live as long as possible, irrelevant of quality of life or enjoyment along the way. I don’t think that’s always the point.
Quantity over Quality seems to be the way these days – irrelevant of everything else.
If a young man is to die in his 20’s or 30’s doing something he loves, people seems to jump up and down saying what a waste, and ‘if only’ he knew better.
When an old man dies in his 80’s or 90’s nobody seems to say much, but it’s implied he ‘did well’ in life, and ‘good job’ type of thing.
Who knows (or cares) if he actually enjoyed and really lived all those 80+ years, it just seems to be important he was above ground.
The quote that best sums this up in my mind is by Burt Munro, the New Zealand world record holder who rode his home built motorbike into the record books. When climbing onto his beast with the certain knowledge he will sustain serious burns to his leg, he says (sic)
While this quote is a little different coming from a 68 year old than young Chris McCandless, I think the essence is still there.
Chris’ final note shows he was not disappointed or sad with the life he had chosen and lived, because for absolute certain, without a shadow of a doubt he knew he had lived.
-Dan
At the point McCandless wrote that letter he was already half dead and really had no choice to say anything else because what happened to him was by his own hand. There is nothing wrong at seeking adventure as long as you do it in a sane manner as you well know. Have you ever read what some experts said about McCandless’ writings and his final plea to be rescued. Its amazing the difference in the writing styles betwen Alex and Chris. To say this was a simple ‘Oh I got lost in the wilderness” story because I wanted to find myself as a man is so mis guided IMO. Please read this article if you haven’t already.
http://www.farnorthscience.com/2007/10/13/media-watch/into-the-wild-the-false-being-within/
Thanks for the article Ross, it’s a really interesting read.
Insanity is loosely defined as thinking differently from everybody else in society, which Chris absolutely was, evidenced by burning his money, turning his back on a “good” education, etc.
So I don’t think it’s a revelation that Chris fits the typical definition of “insane”, and I think it’s pretty likely I fit the same definition. I quit my perfectly good engineering job and traveled and lived in 14 “dangerous” third world countries for almost two years, for fun. Society absolutely says I should have been saving for my future, buying a house, etc. and I’ve been told that many times to my face.
Just because someone thinks and acts differently to the norms defined by society, and therefore fit the definition of “insane” that doesn’t mean they are misguided, or “crazy”.
I think the story of the king and the poisoned well water illustrates this perfectly: http://pakistantimes.net/pt/detail.php?newsId=481
It’s an interesting read, don’t you think?
-Dan
Yes, That is a great story indeed I will book mark this. Keep in mind however the term misguided does not always mean insane..wink..wink! OK now im going to give you a “gift”. This might be the hardest challange of your life and only men that are truly “ready” to explore there inner core should do this weekend. please go to http://www.mkp.org and snoop around see if anything “fits” for you there. Look for the New Warrior Training Adventure weekend. I did this weekend in 1992 and have now staffed over 50 trainings and we now have centers all over the globe. This weekend can be very difficult for even the hardest core people so we are very careful to make sure a Man is “ready” for his trek within. I don’t normally invite total strangers to this training but one of the gifts the training has given me over the years is to go with my instincts. Check it out. McCandless suffered from an inner struggle that more or less ended up killing him and IMO this can be somewhat blamed on his not having proper male role models. in every aspect of your life and yes to the point of death for some. This inner struggle is usually not a killer but it can sabotaage the heck out of you and your daily life, and for some going through life so unconscious making such bad decisions one will evetually kill them and this is what I truly feel killed McCandless in the end. I wouldn’t really use the term insane. This we call “mens work” a rite of passage that can only be passed on from one man to the other. Very powerful stuff. Hence “The Gift”.
Thanks for the great site Ross, I’ve been clicking around for about half and hour, and I’m sure I will spend more time yet.
-Dan
If you have any questions please e mail me. So how does if feel to be back home? How did the Wrangler do throught the trip?
Thanks Ross, I appreciate it.
I’m actually from Australia originally, so Canada is not exactly “home”, though I have been here for a few years now.
My brother and his girlfriend have a really good “home” here and it’s awesome to spend time with them and see what life is like.
The Wrangler was absolutely bullet proof, not a single problem for the whole 65,000kms !
-Dan
Hi Dan,
i am a french 41 years old man and i recently watched the movie two times in a row and i am still thinking about it.
You said “I thought The Magic Bus would be a quiet, sad place to spend time – I was quite surprised to find the opposite was the case.”
Could you to tell us more about the place ?
Thanks
Hervé
Hi Hervé, It’s great to hear the movie spoke to you as it has for so many of us.
I’m happy to tell you anything about the bus.. what specifically would you like to know?
I was most surprised because of the ‘energy’ from the book filled with tales of life changing events thanks to Chris.
-Dan
Chris merely had the courage to do, what we all talk about doing. I remember what Julius Caesar said a coward dies a thousand deaths, a brave man but one. Certainly Chris was a brave man and should be remembered thusly.
“The joy of life comes from our encounters with new experiences, and hence there is no greater joy than to have an endlessly changing horizon, for each day to have a new sun.” -Chris McCandless
Chris inspired me so much that I have decided to become a traveling writer after I get out of college. I had to read Into the Wild for my AP Language class and I was immediately captured by Chris’s ideals and travels. It is a shame that such a great person had to be taken away from this world because I would have liked to meet him… I’m sure his story will bring out the youth in everyone for generations to come.
Hey Dan, I dunno if you’ll read this but me and my friend are planning on going to the magic bus (we live in Vancouver, Canada).
Our idea was to drive to anchorage in July (that should be a fun trip by itself) and once we’re there find our way to the stampede trail… any thoughts? tips? anything?
Thanks man, I really enjoyed your blog, I’m from Chile and I strongly advice you visit Volcan Villarica in the south of Chile, truly a beautiful site!
Hey Ricardo,
You’ll have an amazing drive to Anchorage. If you want to catch up for a beer, you’ll be driving right past my house in Whitehorse. Let me know when you will be around.
Hiking to the bus is for experienced wilderness hikers only. The trail is extremely rough and not marked. The river is cold, deep and swift and you are almost certain to pump into bears.
What kind of wilderness experience do you have?
-Dan
I have read the article about Chris McCandless’ journey to Alaska and the obsticles that he whent through. I would like to say he was a brave and couragous man, and I dont think I could have done what he has done.
Thanks for the nice words Chris. I agree with you 100% – Chris lived his dreams to the fullest.
My English class read an article earlier this week on Chris McCandless’ story. He experienced tough times throughout his journey, and he knew what he had coming. Chris felt he needed to reach some sort of self-realization of the world through his adventure, and he actually went through with it. I think he was very brave for his actions, and lived a life worth living in his own unique way. Much respect.
Hello Dan! My name is Déborah i’m 19 and i’m French!
At first, sorry for my bad english
Christopher’s story touches me a lot and I’m planning to go to The Magic Bus in Alaska in a year (July 2013)! I must first find an experimented guide and other people who wanting to make this trip. I wish I had advice and some help from someone who has already visited the Magic Bus!
I hope you will answer, it’s really important to me…
Hi Déborah,
I know exactly how you feel, Chris’ story touched me very much too.
I have no idea if there are guides that will take people into this part of Alaska. It’s not a common place to go, and most Alaskans don’t think highly of Chris or his story, so they might not be interested in taking people to the bus.
I think your best chance would be to post on hiking forums around the internet and see if you can find other people who are interested in going.
Let me know if I can provide any more help.
All the best!
-Dan
Thank you Dan and KJ!!
I plan to stay in magic bus for only one week. Dan, I’ll try to find people on hiking forums. I know and am conscious that this trip is dangerous, but I really want to do it. Others did it! Why not me?
KJ, do you know where can I find the guide on the internet?
Déborah xo
Deborah and Dan:
Yes, they do have guides and naturally the cost isn’t the cheapest around, well, depending on who is available, needing money, and/or willing to take you there. There are several methods to choose from; a basic guided hiking trip on foot, the full setup (4×4, ATV’s, complete trained guide with complete gear–depending on how many days), and they even will take you via helicopter. But in my opinion that would ruin the entire experience.
My two cents on Chris: You’ve inspired many generations and influenced multitudes, while bringing out the attitude of the “Society” you wanted to avoid. That’s the one positive thing about your adventure, you’ve shown how cruel man can be when they choose. We’ve seen it via your story often. You lived during my brothers time, now deceased, and you were roughly eight yrs. older than I am now.
I’ve seen multiple boards, including this one, where many generations have been inspired by Chris’s adventure. For those that are in their late teens, early twenties, or late twenties and/or anyone for that matter please make sure to be safe and prepared. Make sure to let someone know where you are, if someone is available. I know we all have at least one person, though they might not care for us or vice versa, in our lives we can let know. If not, let the local fire or police station know your approx. coordinates. Obviously, many are surrounded by family and friends. Make sure you are well equipped, use Dan’s advice and experience, along with multiple websites on the Alaskan Back country, Bears, and the conditions. BE PREPARED! Yes, Chris was able to live off the land, but he was experienced and in shape regardless what people may say. He grew up in the boy-scouts, went on numerous yearly hiking trips w/his family, and journeyed across country a few times prior to even graduation HS. He camped frequently, was a top track runner (High Endurance), and had planned his Alaskan trip for some time prior to leaving–getting more in shape and more well equipped. This is all documented. So for those who believe that Chris just one day said, “Hey, I’m going to hit up Alaska on my own” are seriously diluted in their thinking. Unfortunately, the Tek stopped Chris from returning and the current map he had did not show the river tram a few miles down stream. Plus, we don’t know the extent of his injuries by then. Most likely Chris pushed himself to the limit prior to leaving, with only enough strength to leave the back country. But when the river failed and was forced back to the bus, he most likely slowly began to fade. No one will ever know for sure if he was injured that day or another day, but eventually he did pass away from starvation (Many theories here)…NOT SUICIDE. He documented he tried to leave. You don’t document this if you are about to kill yourself?
Keep these ideas in mind if you plan a trekking trip ANYWHERE that requires even the minimum of skill. Most everyone on this page has a common thread, we value humanity even though we may not like or agree w/certain societal rules/regs. Thanks Dan for the website…Best, KJ
Somehow the book from the bus ended up in my big buggy about 4 years ago and I am taking it back this coming weekend.
Right on Dusty. I’d be interested to hear how the bus looks these days (i.e. damage)
I expect there won’t be any snow by now.
good luck to you fella , live the dream as many of us cant ; )
This was beautiful man. Thanks for writing about it & sharing your pictures. I can’t wait to make the journey for myself.
I’m right there with you man, we are on the same wavelength
Outstanding writeup. Makes me want to visit, sounds like a pilgrimage to a holy place. I am enjoying discovering my own holy places in the Midwest. It’s all in your head and heart 
goosebumps, goodluck. no money no problem.
Hi Dan,
Great post, I used it during research before setting out on the Stampede Trail. You can see the results of that trip, including a video, here:
http://www.vaguedirection.com/thestampedetrail/
All the best, and thanks for a great resource.
Dave
Did I just read after all of this that someone ‘accidentally took’ the signing book out of the bus>? wth
I dont know if he meant a book about the adventure, but he said “from the bus” thats no accident. thats messed up, leave things be, this has probably been unspoken and abided by for over 20 yrs now?
I read that also.
I know a lot of Alaskan locals really don’t like the bus, and the “inexperienced” tourists it attracts.
It’s a very controversial topic, and there are plenty of people that vandalize the bus when they get the change.
It’s a shame, but that’s the way it is.
-Dan
Your write up and interactions with the posters is really well written and sincere. I found this information reading about that sad story of the young man who perished recently in OR I think it was…searching about his fascination led me here. I remembered seeing the movie into the wild probably 8 years ago and had no idea the depth of which I was missing, regarding these international travelers and such. Spent all day watching various youtube vids of the bus, its amazing. At least some of the books were left there, the family bible it seems…I guess each time someone travels there nobody knows how much will be intact. I also noticed on some tube vids from two years ago that big dedication plaque may be missing.
These seem like two very different stories with similar outcomes, bless both these young people and their brief lives. Should I ever run into someone in the wild I hope they are as trustworthy and well versed in nature as you are Dan. If karma exists it should treat you well. Peace
B
Cris has,in a way,revolutionized my view of the world.He has quaked the foundation of my belief that family and society r the synonyms of happiness.His death has,however, always traumatized me.Cris’s quest for total freedom has been the notion of my life ever since I read the book and watched the movie.I’m a 17-year old juvenile.And I live in that society that represses my ‘Cris Mccandless’within.But in my life,I have dreamed of renaissance that fraction of Mccandless I mean dreamed of going into the wild for a thoreauvian period like cris.But its true that I cant live my entire life in bushes.Wat do u say,Dan?
P.S.:English is my second language and I know its nt gud enough.sorry if there is any mistake and sorry if I have polluted this site putting my view.
Hi Purushottam,
Thanks for your thoughts. Your English is excellent!
Chris teaches us all many lessons, and everyone takes something different from his story.
I, personally, very much enjoyed my “Wild Time” and I will be doing it again – sell all my stuff and just get out there an live for an extended period (years).
Good luck in your quest!
-Dan
Hey Dan!
I`ve just discovered youre wonderful Homepage.
Its very interesting and touching to read about your adventures and the articles.
Thanks a lot for sharing!
I got to your site by reading about Christopher McCandless. He`s very inspiring.
I don`t just mean inspiring to travel the world…much more to learn to listen to your own heart and soul and to start making your dreams come true.
Whatever you wanna reach, just be brave and try and i`m sure life will be kind.
I hope to read more from you and that you reach what you are looking for!
Have a wooooonderful time!
Kind regards from Germany!
I agree with you that the subject of Christopher is a polarizing one. I think the criticism of Chris is often far too harsh. I always enjoyed his sentiment and identify with his internal struggles and wanderlust. I find his story to be more inspirational than cautionary, though it is both. I am lucky to have known from a young age that people, friends and family are the most important part of life. Those who call him selfish for leaving behind his worrisome parents and sister fail to recognize that he had been without any real connection to his parents long before his adventure and that his sister understood what he was doing. Though she missed him, she loved her brother for who he was and would not look to cage his free spirit. I have a question though, why is it that I have always thought Thoreau was a pretentious trust-fund-hippie but idolized McCandles? Did the Eddie Vedder soundtrack really have that much of an impact on me?
Hi Dan
I live in a small town within the woods in Mexico and one day, sneaking in a small books store near downtown church I found this amazing book “Into the wild”. That very same day I couldn’t stop reading (without even sleeping) until I finished it and when I did it I was not sad, but happy because I knew somehow Chris died doing what he loved at most, in what he believed, and that’s inspiring instead of sad or a bad example for other people who wish to live an adventure like that.
I’ve read the opinions of those who believe that he was reckless and committed suicide but I don’t agree, he was an old times explorer like those who lived in times with no gps or whatsoever.
Ever since then I’ve been googling his life and looking forward to know more about him, I also watched the movie and experienced again that same sensation of freedom with his story that I felt when I read the book.
I read some place about a traveler who crossed the entire world on his bicycle and he said that in a world where the only thing we have for granted is death then time should be the priceless value, instead of money, so I’ve lived dreaming to have the courage and chance to begin my very own trip.
Last year I did the “Camino de Santiago”, a millenarian pilgrim’s trip of 800 kilometers in Spain on my bicycle and for me that was a very small glimpse of what I’d wish to live when I decide to start my very own story on my bike around the world.
Many thanks for this post, it’s awesome.
Hi Nelson,
Muchas Gracias por su mensaje!
Donde vives en México?
I agree with you 100% – Chris was very inspirational and can teach us many lessons about how to live life.
That’s awesome you rode a bike on the Camino de Santiago – my sister hiked it a few years back, and it’s always been interesting to me!
I wish you all the best on your future adventures, it sounds like you have an awesome perspective!
-Dan
A good read from the Outside Magazin about the problem of this pilgrim hike:
outsideonline.com/adventure-travel/north-america/united-states/alaska/the-chris-mccandless-obsession-problem.html
Hi Dan,
I’ve just stumbled across your post when researching the Stampede Trail and was really uplifted reading about your adventure. Most of the blogs/posts I’ve read with regards to this hike have been advising people to steer well clear as apparently a lot of people have perished on the trail.
I’m currently in the middle of reading ‘Into The Wild’ and have been really inspired by the story and have decided that within the next couple of years, visiting the bus is a definite must on my bucket list. I guess the bit I’m most anxious about would be crossing the river as although I’m not a very petite person, similarly I’m not built like a Russian shot putter either! What advice would you offer someone like me in crossing in the safest way?
Hope to hear from you soon.
Georgie x
Hey Georgie,
I’m happy to hear you enjoyed my post on The Magic Bus. It really is a special place, and I hope I did it justice in my writing.
A few good friends were there this year (I live pretty close, relatively speaking)
And I’m actually planning a return trip in Spring 2015. My plan is to go sometime close to Easter as a late winter/early spring trip. That way you can just walk right across the river as it’s still frozen.
I’ve got lots of experience in winter travel, and I’ll take snowshoes or skis, and drag a toboggan with my gear in it. I’d like to stay at the bus at least two nights, and by the sounds of it I’ll take two days getting in there.
Do you have any interest in a trip to the bus in Spring 2015? It would be nice to have someone to go with.
If you have any interest, drop me an email and we’ll see what we can figure out.
-Dan
Hey Dan I am from Danmark
I have read ther book into the Wild. I hope you maybe Can help me. i like to see the bus Where Alex lived (Christopher) i Can not fine anything on the net, how to get there. I hope you Can help me 
I Will bee soo happy if you Would help me:):) Hope to hear from you soon litta
Hi Litta,
Getting to the bus requires a lot of back country hiking and camping experience. Also bear encounters are pretty much a given.
Do you have a lot of experience?
I recommend you start out with shorter, easier hikes first to test your gear and get comfortable hiking and camping before throwing yourself into the Alaska wilderness.
Good Luck!
-Dan
Hi Dan, what an amazing trip you did! Very jealous. Do you know any companies who can guide travellers to the Magic Bus?
Would be great if you have any tips! Thanks in advance.
Hi Elise,
I don’t know of any companies taking people to the bus, no.
It’s a serious wilderness expedition, but if you train and practice in the back country enough, you can make it.
-Dan
Dan,
Your posts are amazing. Ever since I was a kid i dreamed of Alaska. I grew up like Chris in a higher middle income home with all the comforts of modern life supplied. Difference between Chris and I is that my Dad was very attentive and encouraging. My love for the outdoors started with my Dad and walk in the woods and hunting. I was always taught to never take more than is needed and whatever I took I had to eat. The other influence was the Scouts. It really got me more indepth with how nature worked. I took to ut like a duck to water and went all the way to Eagle Scout.
Decades went by, my face went from the kind of face that wouldn’t pass when buying beer at a 7-11 to a weathered, beaten and wrinkled mug that resembled the north face of Denali. I had slaved away for years providing for my family and deep inside i longed for the freedom of the wilderness. But as my kids got older i started to get back to my natural longing for all things wild.
On my first trip to Alaska I chose a place that was about as sucluded as it gets. Much more sucluded than Chris’s bus. It was Prince of Wales Island in a place called the Karta Wilderness. It wasn’t a bus but it was a very primitive forest service cabin. It was there on the Karta River that i sat down and I had a moment that my soul reconnectedwith after decades of disconnection woth the REAL world and the REAL me. Its hard to understand. It was like I had gone away and lived someone else’s life for a while then came back home. On a stream in the middle of a pristine temperate rainforest without a soul for miles i truely felt alone and with myself. There was no hiding of make believe, it was just me by myself, the only true friend I’ve ever had.
Ever since then I do this every summer. This year Im going full on Dan, I’m buying 5 acres in the wilderness from the State of Alaska to build a cabin with my bare hands so I can really live, even if it is just for a week at a time. Ill keep you posted with progress.
Hey Chet,
That’s awesome! I’m so happy to hear your story! I have just been living in Whitehorse, Yukon for 4 years, doing much the same.
I would love to hear of progress, and one day when I return to the North I would love to come and lend a hand on your cabin, if you’ll have me!
Stay in touch, all the best
-Dan
Hello Dan,
I am going to make the hike to the bus with some friends on May 3rd, 2018. Do you think we can complete the hike in one day? I wanted to leave on the 3rd really early in the morning, spend the night there, and then head back the next day. Do you think this would be possible? Or is it too difficult to do it in such a short time? Around how long would it take to walk the whole trail?
Hi Roberto,
How much wilderness hiking experience do you have? Are you prepared for very cold weather? It could easily be -10C overnight there in early May.. lakes will likely still be frozen in the area. The river should be low though, which is nice.
Depending on how far you can drive down the road it is possible to hike to the bus in a single massive day – plan on 8 to 10 hours. More if it’s muddy or there is still some snow.
If you don’t know how to deal with bear encounters, I worry you should not be attempting the hike at all. Do you have bear spray? Do you know how to hang your food in a tree overnight?
Maybe you need to practice more wilderness skills before attempting such a big and remote trail.
-Dan
Hello Dan,
Yes, we are well prepared for cold weather. We are bringing MRE food for our trip so we won’t need to hang food. Yes. we will have bear spray and a gun just in case of emergencies.
In regards to encountering a bear, I read that the best thing to do is to make them aware that we are there and to never surprise them. Also, to never run and to just make yourself bigger and load if they approach you. Is that correct? Or am I missing anything?
I am going with 3 of my friends. It would better if we could go with a bigger group but I don’t know anyone in Alaska that would be willing to come with us.
Hi Roberto,
It sounds like you have all the bases covered. Four people in total should be good. Yes, make plenty of noise so you don’t startle the bears, and if you do see one stand your ground like you said.
Good luck! I would love to hear if you do make it to the bus!
-Dan