The road chose me

I remember when I first dreamed of this adventure, the number one sight on my list for South America was Machu Picchu – probably because I didn’t know anything else. Taking the train from Cuzco is really expensive (USD$122 return) so I decide to go for the cheaper, walk-in option.

The owner of the campsite has this little guy

I set out early one morning and drive through The Sacred Valley, passing Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Santa Maria and along a very narrow little track to the village of Santa Teresa. I’m amazed at the dense jungle and feel like I’m right back in Central America – complete with torrential rain, humidity and thick clouds of ferocious biting insects. I camp for the night at the “Inka Tour Hospedaje” where the friendly owner charges next to nothing and lets me park the Jeep while I go hiking for a few days. Walking the 40 minutes at dust to the Hot Springs near town is very worthwhile – an evening soak with just a couple of other people.

The remote road to Hydroelectrica

In the morning I hike two hours along a windy gravel road to Hydroelectrica, the heat and humidity climbing steadily the entire time. This is actually the last stop on the famous railway, and while I could catch a train for USD$8, I opt to walk the tracks for a further two hours to Aguas Calientes. Impressively, Machu Picchu Mountain is directly in front of me for most of the hike, and ruins are visible high above on Wayna Picchu to the left.

"Please, walk on the tracks"

The town of Aguas Calientes is the very definition of a tourist trap, everything is over-priced about 400% and we are all quite literally stuck there for the night. After meeting up with a few friends and grabbing a “happy hour” beer we can’t help but make fun of the advertising – people are trying to lure us in left and right, we’re even told it’s 6-for-1 drinks right now. Upon closer investigation it’s nothing of the sort, and even the Argentineans with perfect Spanish can’t get the proprietor to explain how it even remotely resembles the claimed 6-for-1.
The beer is expensive, cold and great

Jungle and train tracks

I’m up at 4am in the morning, not content to pay the USD$8 one-way for the bus to the actual site of Machu Picchu. About 50 people have opted to walk the very steep ascent, which takes around 90 minutes. When I arrive soon after 5am I’m about the 15th person in line, clearly guaranteed to get the all-importatnt stamp to climb Wayna Picchu, of which there are only 400 issued each day.

Amazed to be there

Seeing the site for the first time is surreal, compounded by the fact I am one of the first through the gate, so there is not a single person wandering the ruins. Staring for half an hour does little to change my feeling of disbelief. Over the course of the day I hike up the nearby Wayna Picchu Mountain where the views are spectacular, hike the final section of The Inca Trail to Intipunku (The Sun Gate) and finally hike up Machu Picchu Mountain for superlative views of the whole area.

Climbing to Wayna Picchu

The view from Wayna Picchu

By the end of the day I am extremely hungry and thirsty, though not willing to pay the outrageously inflated prices for food and water on the mountain. I walk back down to Aguas Calientes, drink two liters of expensive water and collapse after a very big day.

The view from Intipunku (The Sun Gate) Inca Trail on left

The superlative view from Machu Picchu Mountain

For my final day I’m on the trail at 5.30am, hike the four hours back to Santa Teresa, then jump in the Jeep to drive the six hours back to Cuzco. Another big day.
Extremely tired and foot-sore I find the energy to walk into town and I’m pretty sure I make money at the USD$5 buffet.

The stonework is extremely precise

-Dan

I see on my basic maps a route passing through the middle of the mountains and set out, aiming in the far distance for Cuzco. Along the way I pass through Huánuco, The extremely high & cold Cerro de Pasco, Huancayo, Ayacucho, Abancay and finally arrive in Cuzco many days later after some very long days on horrendous gravel roads.
Highlights along the way include:

• Driving through a heavy snowstorm near Cerro de Pasco. For the first time I see Peruvians drive with anything resembling restraint or diligence.

• Watching an enormous thunderstorm roll right in front my campsite, with a beautiful sunset as the backdrop.

Sunset in the mountains

• Wandering into a shopping centre in Huancayo that is bigger, brighter and all-round ‘more’ than anything I’ve seen before. These guys have copied the North American model to the letter, complete with suits walking around taking copious notes about everything and anything. My appearance is apparently significant, as they all go crazy writing and following me around to see where I go.

• Randomly meeting a friendly local in Ayacucho, hanging out with him all day and having a great night with all his friends. Staying at the ‘Discoteca’ until 3.30 necessitates an extra day in Ayacucho.

Just another Peruvian highway...

• Seeing Peruvian road construction in full-scale action – I know this doesn’t sound like much, but it really is a sight to see. Around 100km at a time is worked on, and each corner I round I see at least a hundred workers digging, drilling and jack-hammering, not to mention the hundreds of pieces of heavy machinery of all kinds. In a few hours I see tens of thousands of Peruvians working hard to surface these crazy mountain roads. And the best part of all? The entire area is lit, so work continues 24 hours a day.

• Discovering my camp stove gets hot enough to cook popcorn. I see a lot of popcorn in my future.

I arrive in Cuzco right on sunset and find my way to the amazing Quinta Lala campground, essentially dedicated to overland travelers. Checkout their Previous Visitors page to get an idea of the kind of vehicles people are driving around down here. With wifi, a laundry, kitchen, dry area for camping and plenty of green grass only 15 mins walk from the center of town it’s going to be hard to leave.

Cuzco

Jeep in the main square of Cuzco

-Dan

(This story begins here: The Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit Days 1 & 2)

Day 7 – 1700 meter ascent / 1350 meter decent / xx km / 9 hrs
Very cold night. Am happy to see daylight. Leave at 6.40am, up to Mirador San Antonio by 8am. Wow. Unbelievable. Never imagined would be here to see all this – site of Joe Simpson’s ‘Touching The Void’. Siula Grande spectacular.
On real trail at 9am, make great time on flat. Pack feels very good, like normal hiking weight. Arrive at town of Huayllapa at 1pm expecting 1hr climb to campsite. Push on and on, uphill whole time for 2.5hrs without lunch. Utterly exhausted. Hardest day yet. Zero energy. In bed before dark.
Feet wet & worse. Boots literally falling apart.

Siula Grande (6260m) - Joe Simpson's mountain

"Touching the Void"

Loving the view at Mirador San Antionio

The immense views

Sunset at the Tapuish campsite

Day 8 – 500 meter ascent / 1200 meter decent / xx km / 7.5 hrs
Cold again overnight. Hours awake. On trail at 7am. Push past first pass (Punta Tapuish, 4800m) in good time. Through valley to second (Punta Yaucha, 4840m). Not too steep. Again good time. Finally keeping up with suggested times in guide. Lunch on top. Down lush valley to familiar campsite (Laguna Yahuacocha from day 1).
Somehow easy day. Feel good. Feet same.
Last night feels strange.

View from Punta Yaucha (4840m)

Day 9 – 700m ascent / 600m descent / xx km / 4.5 hrs
Good sleep. Out at 7am. 2.5hrs up to Pampa Llamac Pass (4300m), 2hrs down to Llamac. Jeep safe.
Final victory Oreo with bag of chips and cold Coke.
Exhausted & jubilant.

Laguna Yahuacocha from above

-Dan

(This story begins here: The Cordillera Huayhuash Circuit Days 1 & 2)

Day 5 – 500 meter ascent / 400 meter decent / xx km / 5 hrs
Very low cloud & overcast in morning, away at 7am. Cruise up to pass (Portachuelo de Huayhuash, 4750m), snowing at top and quickly very cold. Arrive at hotsprings at 12, light rain. Soak all afternoon, then explore. LOTS of hot water around. Nighttime soak. Into bed very warm.
Short, easy day.

Cloudy start in the morning

The campsite at the Huayhuash hotsprings

The Huayhuash hotsprings

Tons of hot water in valley

Day 6 – 525 meter ascent / 500 meter decent / xx km / 5 hrs
Almost all blue sky at 6am – move! On trail at 7.10am. Slow and steady to Punta Cuyoc (5000m), highest on trail. Feel much better. Pack lighter, moving very well. Only short rests now. View from top amazing, a little cloudy. Cut day short, camp ready to hike to Mirador San Antonio first thing.
Again very short, easy day. I feel good.
Camping alone. Solitude is BIG here.

Extremely close to Cuyoc

Up hight on Punta Cutoc (5000m)

Solitary camping under Cuyoc

The Guanacpatay valley, where I camped

-Dan