The Magic Bus
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The Road Chose Me Volume 2: Three years and 54,000 miles around Africa
The Magic Bus was a place I had dreamed of visiting since I first saw the movie and read the Jon Krakauer book, “Into The Wild”. I think of it as a pilgrimage made by those who have felt some kind of connection with Chris McCandless and his story. Most people don’t realize the bus lies on the well known “Stampede Trail”, not all that far from civilization and can be reached in a solid day of hiking.
The Stampede Trail is fifty miles of rough, overgrown mining road that was abandoned in 1963. No bridges were ever constructed over the several rivers it crosses so it is primarily used by backcountry travelers on foot, bicycle, snow machine and motorcycle. The now infamous Fairbanks City Transit bus #142 was left behind by the Yutan Construction Company during the road building to serve as a backcountry shelter for hunters, trappers and ranger patrols.
Typical conditions on the Stampede Trail
I met two cool Austrian characters, Thomas and (roll the ‘R’) Roland on the Dalton Highway and it took all of 10 seconds to convince them to join me on a trip to ‘The Bus’. We were able to drive about 12.5 miles down Stampede Road before we had to leave the vehicles behind and continue on foot. The first hour and a half of hiking the next morning saw us travel on a really good quad trail, through some small swaps, through a couple of shin-deep river crossings and spat us out at the edge of the Teklinika River.
Ultimately, the ‘Tek’ was Chris’ downfall when he was unable to cross it and return to civilization, forcing him back to the bus. Although it was not the raging torrent Emile Hirsch faced in the movie, it was obvious we would be swept off our feet and downstream if we did not keep our heads about us.
We ummmed and arrred for quite a while and wandered upstream, where we had been told the river was wider and shallower. Once we got sick of our aimless wandering, Thomas picked a spot and after throwing in rocks and using sticks to measure the depth we all agreed it was our best chance. We tentatively forded one at a time, with our packs un-buckled so we could ditch them if we were to get swept in. It’s a shame you can’t see my face in any of the photos – I was more than a bit scared when it reached mid-thigh in depth and began to really push hard. Slow and steady won through and I was relieved to be on the other side. Roland came powering across like he was on a mission and in a voice that was too much Arnie to be true beamed “Bah, dat was easy”.
Crossing the mighty Teklinika River
Thomas and Roland are fitness machines and once we were back on the trail I was quickly left in their dust, alone with my thoughts. Chris must have felt such a sense of isolation and awe to be all the way out here, alone, not knowing if there was anything or anyone ahead. At times I yelled into the alder and clapped my hands, trying to avoid startling any neighborhood bears. At times I sang aloud and at times I was silently reflecting – I was actually going to the bus, the bus that Chris had spent four months living in, was essentially trapped in and finally died in. Wow.
When bus 142 appeared on the side of the trail, seemingly out of thin air I was quite startled. I’d been hiking on my own for 10 miles but somehow wasn’t ready to be there yet. I paused on the edge of the clearing for a moment, then again in the doorway, trying to take everything in. Even though I’d never been there before, it was very familiar – from the description in the book, the movie and also from the pictures I’ve seen online.
The front of The Magic Bus
I thought The Magic Bus would be a quiet, sad place to spend time – I was quite surprised to find the opposite was the case.
The stove and bed of The Magic Bus
It’s customary for visitors to inscribe their name on the wall of the bus and write a message in the “Guest Book” – a book placed in the bus by Chris’ sister Carine. There were hundreds, maybe even thousands of exhilarating messages from people all over the world who had made the trek out to the bus. People wrote about how upon hearing Chris’ story they changed their lives so they could live their dreams, people wrote of hitching thousands of miles to be there, people wrote about how beautiful of a place Chris had found. Graffiti like ‘Solo trek to honor Chris’ and ‘Swept downstream by Tek, it was worth it’ made me grin from ear to ear – Chris has inspired thousands of people and and I was thrilled to be a part of that.
Jon Krakauer’s message in the book
My message in the Guest Book captures my feelings:
You have inspired more people than you will ever know, not least of all me.
Your passion, courage and determination gave me the strength to believe I really can make my dreams come true.
And here I am, in Alaska, having been to the Arctic Ocean, on my way to South America.
Thankyou Chris.
Christopher McCandless Plaque
I spent many quiet hours in the bus, reading the walls and the many guest books.
Although I hunted high and low I could not find any writing from Chris himself – it seems they have all faded away over the years.
A quote by Thoreau on The Magic Bus
It was truly and amazing experience and all three of us couldn’t stop grinning and talking of adventures to come the entire hike back.
Roland Dan & Thomas at The Magic Bus
My hair is all wrong and my beard is not nearly long enough, but you get the idea:
Dan at The Magic Bus
-Dan
If you’ve just stumbled onto my site, I encourage you to have a look around and read more about my 2 year expedition from Alaska to Argentina and my 3 year expedition all the way around Africa.
I wish I could have known him….
there was a purity about him, a goodness that does not exist in most people……..
he was young and free and he had the right and the courage to do as he wished…..and he did….all the way, all the way to the end.
He hurt no one, he loved nature, and like all of us, he was human, a creation of god….of the earth he was made, and of the earth he left.
He wasn’t special……..he was “extra special”
some people are special, and some are “extra special”
Most of the time when a cake is baked, there is a standard recipe, all the ingredients are thrown in a bowl, mixed up and poured in a pan and tossed in the oven…..and then sometimes, very rarely, a cake is created with a couple of “extra special” ingredients that aren’t normally used in the recipe,
the result is an extra special cake, one that everybody loves,
it is irresistible to everyone, nobody can look at it or be around it without wanting a piece of it………
That was Chris….he was an “extra special” soul in this world, and he remains special, even in death….if not more so in death….
Many people judge him, and go on and on about “stupidity” for walking into the wild ill equipped…..STFU……it is not their right to judge him,
the same goes for those who judge him for leaving his family……When I had my children, I gave them life, I “gave” it to them, they owe me nothing now. It was my choice to have them, they do not owe me for doing so. Of course I hope they are in my life always and they live to grow old and have happy prosperous lives, but it is up to them how they live life and what they do with the life given to them.
He did what he needed to do and he had that right. I am the same age as Chris would be now and I am a mother of 4 sons…..my heart broke over and over reading about the journey of Chris “Alex Supertramp” McCandless, I can understand the pain the family felt and will feel the rest of their lives. My heart goes out to them, especially Billie.
It is of course very sad and tragic………but as sad and tragic it may be, it is beautiful and touching.
Like Rose says of Jack, from the Movie “Titanic”
‘He exsists now….only in my mind”
That is how Chris lives on…….in our minds and in our hearts, in our adventures and our thoughts.
He was perhaps a soul that was just too good for our world.
With Love,
Audra
Audra – Thank you for sharing your touching thoughts. I agree completely that Chris will live on in our thoughts, and I’m sure he will continue to do so for a very long time. Keep adventuring !
Audra – he hurt many, many people with his suicide. He was irresponsible though I totally get and agree with the philosophy that sent Chris out into the world the way he went.
I don’t agree with you that he committed suicide any more than a skydiving instructor who’s chute fails to open is committing suicide. Chris knew very well he was undertaking a very dangerous endeavor, and he accepted that risk. I don’t think that is the same as suicide.
I just watched the movie last night, and found it very moving. Not exactly sad…melancholy is the word I would use.
I agree that Chris did not “commit suicide,” nor do I think his actions were stupid. His death was the somewhat predictable result of his actions, so I can’t pity him and I really don’t think he would want me to. I don’t think he wanted to just survive in the wilderness…I think he wanted to survive in the wilderness with little to no prep. I can’t help wondering if most of the criticism comes from people who have never taken a real risk or stepped off the well-worn path.
I stumbled on your site while looking for the haunting picture of Chris, which appears at the end of the movie. Note the smile!
Hey Scratch, I like your train of thought, very similar to what I think about the whole thing.
I’ve been in Alaska more or less in the same time you’ve been and didn’t known Chris story. I’ve heard about the movie but just saw last friday and couldn’t stop thinking of the time I’ve spend in there, having (I believe) the same wondering about all that place, story and all… I’ve just stayed in the seaside cities (was working on ships…) but all the time I looked up to the mountains and when I flew over the snowy picks takes my breath away….
He’s story it’s amazing! The feeling taht I had in the end was “That’s it! That’s the travel way I always wanted” The whole travel, not just Alaska…. I love travel, principally alone… I learn to apreciated it! But as he wrote: “it’s nothing without shering”
That’s for the great post and photos means a lot for someone down the globe.
São Paulo, Brazil
Hey Jana – just like me you have been inspired by Chris’ amazing story!
Careful, it’s life changing
I know… I trying hard to stay in my newly very nice job at least till get money to “desappear” for a year…
Yep, it’s a fine balance to find between work and play…
Thanks for sharing the pics of your trip. I too have read the book and seen the film. Something always bothered me though, more than McCandless’ lack of preparation — if Chris was shunning the materialism and comforts of modern society, then why did he choose to live inside the bus, a man-made structure? It seems at odds with his philosophy and desire to live off the land. Jack London’s characters, whom McCandless admired, didn’t live “indoors.” His use of the bus felt hypocritical to me. I know it may seem a small point, but it’s never sat right with me that a man who earlier ditched his car would spend months squatting inside of a man-made structure instead of living in a tent. Wouldn’t he strive to be as natural as possible? Of course, tents are man-made as well and Chris was constantly relying on society (via man-made weapons, books, people, etc.) throughout his journey. I guess I don’t see him as self-reliant as others do. I think he depended very much on the same society he scoffed at. That being said, I don’t judge his death. Each person has their own life to live.
It is an interesting point, Katie. If you have ever tried it, I think you`ll find that living in a tiny tent for months on end is not really all that fun (trust me) the bus was more like a `home`and not so temp. It really is a magical place, and I think if you went there, you would know why Chris chose to live there.
I just watch this documentary, in case you don’t know it, It’s pretty good.
http://www.terraincognitafilms.com/wild/call_intro.htm
Good Luck to all.
Thanks Mauricio, I really want to see that and will do as soon as I have a place to call home.
I find his story inspiring and saddening at the same time. Inspiring in that someone out there actually did it. He went on a journey in search of truth and beauty and created his self. I know he isn’t by any means the “first and only” person to ever go on a spiritual wandering, but I find his story so moving, one: because I am nearly the same age as him whenever he began his adventure (and can relate at least somewhat to his state of mind at the time), two: I feel most at home in nature (which I’m assuming he did as well since he lived in it for two years), three: our family situations are very similar, and four: by what I gather of his life, I see him as an embodiment of the philosophies I’m so moved by (namely those of Soren Kierkegaard and Walker Percy).
His story saddens me as well however, in that he did something that I’m not sure that could ever have the strength to do. I see some of the same things that he saw in society (well…I’m using the movie and research as references to his thoughts) but I’m not sure that I could ever just break away from it all. It makes me feel incredibly dishonest–surrounded by materialism and mind-numbing “entertainment” while maintaining how I’m so influenced by nature. Not that I feel that I have to do the same things as he did to live honestly, but I admire his strength of heart and conviction to find truth for himself. Just him feeling so passionately about something that he completely recreated himself–He is the knight of faith. I hope that I can stay focused on finding my own truth and beauty with such determination. I’ll find my own way and my own truth. Chris McCandless is an idol in that respect.
And to those who criticize and make assumptions of his mental condition–Truth is subjectivity.
Amazing thoughts Destiny – thankyou so much for sharing. Chris is truely an inspirational person
My boyfriends father owns a lodge in Heli, Alaska. I think I am going up there this summer now to go see this bus!
You really should go Danielle, Alaska is absolutely amazing!
Dan, I’m going to Fairbanks this May 25 2010.
My question is
1. Is it possible to do this hiking to the ‘Bus’ in one day? say If i start early like 6am from Stampede Road?
2. What is the total distance to the bus from Stampede Road?
3. Do have any clue whether it should be possible to cross Teklinika River at the end of May?
Your suggestion is highly appreciated.
Thank U!
Vatsan
Hey Vatsan, I hiked into the bus in one day, but I did drive a really really long way down stampede road in my Jeep. Without a good 4×4 you will have to hike a lot further, and I think most people then break it into a two day in, two day out hike.
I don´t know exactly, but I think we did something like 4-6 miles from where we drove to the Tek river then another 10 miles from the river to the bus.
I am no expert at all, but I think you would not be able to cross the Tek in late May. The park rangers I spoke to in Denali certainly knew of the Tek, so it would be worth calling and asking them how high it is running when you plan to go. If you are experienced and well equiped, I expect they will be helpful.
All the best, let me know how you get on.
Thanks Dan! I’ll get in touch with the park rangers.
If that is not possible, my alternate is to travel to Valdez (Alaskan Swiss), which is at south-east of Anchorage.
Valdez is very very beautiful, you will have a great time even if that is your ´plan B´
This is very interesting. I too will be traveling to Fairbanks on May 25 2010. Maybe we’ll see each other around the bus. I plan to spend a great deal of time there.
Even if the river is rather impossible to cross in June I plan on building a minor zip line across it to help my packrafting across. Email me at enduretheelements2007(at)yahoo.com
Wow, J.D. you sounds really determined to get there! A pack raft really does seem to be the way to go.
I’d love to hear if you make it.
I cannot wait to make the journey to the magic bus!!!
For experienced wilderness travellers, it’s a very special place!
I watched the movie today…and browsed all over the web to gather whatever i could regarding chris…and thts how i got here too….
i have to say, Dan congrads tht u made it to the MAGIC BUS…hope i could do it someday as well…
Chris has inspired me so very much that i have come to a conclusion that atleast i would change certain aspect of my life from now on…atleast the materialistic aspects…
i just cant stop thinking how a 23 year old young man could think so so so maturely…may his soul rest in peace…
and great snaps Dan BTW…
would like to see more of Magic bus and its surroundings…
keep hiking…:)
Subodh – Chris has inspired me hugely as well. He taught me many lessons that I´ll never forget and will carry with me on all of my adventures. If you have the wilderness experience, I highly recommend a trip to the magic bus…
I will love to see more people just throwing all materialism excess and going wild in a such a passionate way. I would like to feel once what it feels to loose everything in order to have everything.. thanks for showing how to live and die strong, does who fear to live salute you!. Peace..
Hey Esteban, you are very welcome. I hope I can inspire you to live your dreams as well!
Dan, thank you for your pictures and sharing of your story so that those of us who were looking for more after seeing the movie/docu. could follow with more story. Unfortunately, I don’t think that Chris’ experience would move so many if he had not been such a tragic figure – and that leaves me with such mixed feelings. How about you?
Hey Caroline – you are right, it’s a very difficult topic to cover. I could speculate all day on what Chris may have become if he had not died at the bus, but obviously nobody knows for sure. It is very sad that he passed away, so we should make the most of the lessons he taught us.
“Alex” was cockamamie crazy to go into the Alaskan wilderness, with no real training or supplies. But to me, those are the kind of people who lead truly interesting lives. They’re considerably more fascinating than the JoeBlow types who become ko-zillionaires and become old and cranky, then die trying to hang on their ever-last penny.
I was 23 years old when I lived in Alaska (Fairbanks) in 1986. I enjoyed traveling and seeing the astonishing wilderness – Talkeetna, Anchorage, Denali, etc. Seward is the prettiest little town I’ve ever seen. I will never forget my 2 1/2 week cross country trek (from my small Georgian hometown) to Alaska, taking mostly backroads, staying in unfamiliar towns, opting to see the countryside as opposed to driving the populated and well-known highways. I lived in Fairbanks for 8 months, and then took a different route back to my hometown. It was one of the most awesome times of my life.
McCandless was clearly a lover of all that is natural. His story was totally cool, right up until the part where he died. But I imagine had it not ended that way, his story would have not been so renown. I hope he found the solitude he was looking for; it sure seems that way.
Hey Lisa – your adventure up to Alaska and back sounds amazing! I’m surprised you went back home, I sure met a lot of people that never did.
Maybe Chris was ‘crazy’. But then, even if you had the chance, would you want to be ‘normal’?
I don’t.
I just watched the movie for the second time and read the book a few years back. It is amazing how inspirational they are, and how sad. I am about the age Chris would have been if he had lived, and I share his love of nature and adventure, but I do not have his courage. When I see his death portrayed, I feel that a part of me is dying. I know this means it is time to start really living a joyful life-I think this is his message. I love him – at least what his quotes, and the book and movie seem to say he is. Like so many others, I will have a better life because of him.
Your posts and pictures show how life continues on after death. Just imagine what he would think if he read all this! Thank you and have a great adventure!
Sylvia – I feel pretty confident Chris would not want us to be sad about his death, but to draw inspiration from it as you have to make sure we prioritize things in our life in a manner than makes us as and those around us as happy as possible.
Hello Dan,
I just saw the movie and thanks to the internet read up on Chris and his life, how interesting. I was telling my 17 year old son about it and that I wanted him to see it when he gets a chance. I think there is a free spirit in all of us just dying to come out but most of us are just scared to take some chances. As I told my son what’s really important is not the wealth or material things we accumulate but the people we touch and the relationships we create. What else really matters? Thanks for your account of your trip to the Magic School Bus, reading it and seeing the photos made Chris’s story all the more real. I am looking forward to reading more of your adventures, good luck!
Hey Juan, thanks so much for the comment and contribution! I think most people go through life without really thinking about what they want. Going to work everyday and buying things like cell phones and big screen TVs and fancy cars is something that kind of becomes automatic. It’s great you can teach your son there are more important things in life and all those possessions really are a choice.
If a person really does enjoy those things then they should absolutely get them, but I have to wonder how many people actually do.
Personally I think that Chris’s reasons and intentions changed as he fled college, ‘normal’ life, and his materialistically damaged family. Originally it seemed that Chris was simply running away; almost a youth in revolt, but in a adult to society kind of way. As Chris moved along through his odyssey, he began to realize this plan to discover himself and the understanding of life. Quoting from the book, “Just get out there,” it seems Chris needs to purge himself of materialism, wants, and luxuries in an attempt to understand life, and the true meaning to survive. He understands that the concrete, most basic mental process of any living thing is to survive, and only by truly surviving on his own can he cleanse himself of society and live.
That’s a really cool interpretation – I’ll be thinking about that for a while to come.
Thanks Gordon!
“It is some advantage to lead a primitive life if only to learn what are the necessaries. Most of the luxuries and many of the so-called comforts are not only dispensable but positive hindrances.” -Thoreau
Wow Ryan, I really like that.
I’m trying to read Walden right now and I’m going through really slowly.
i like the way you did the interpretation, nice post.
What I would have done: Donated about $12,000 (about half, in other words) of the money to charity. Used the rest as seed money or capital to begin a new independent life. By the time I reached Alaska and the Stampede Trail area, I would have certain basic supplies – I’d be well-prepared for what I was trying to do.
I am not saying that I don’t admire Chris, because I do!
And I particularly admire him for trying to live on wild edible plants.
Also, I admire his idealism – which was obviously combined with a certain degree of realism.
For example, he was realistic in that he proved that it is possible to live by foraging for wild vegetation.
I admire the idealism that is similar to the idealism of the monks and hermits who have withdrawn from society for spiritual contemplation and spiritual growth.
There is a time for socializing; a time for altruism; and a time for solitude – a time for spiritual reflection and contemplation.
Hey Carrie, I find it interesting you mention you would spend some money to be “well-prepared” for what you were trying to do. Everyone that undertakes an activity accepts their own level of preparedness as a balance with the level of adventure they want to have. There are many people that attempt to climb Everest without oxygen, or who camp out in the woods under a very small tarp and nothing else – this doesn’t make them unprepared.
I think it just means they decided what is absolutely essential for their adventure and took the bare minimum (in their own mind)
I think Chris thought himself prepared.
-Dan
The trek of mccandless has inspired me to take a better look at life,I enjoy hiking,hunting and fishing
[ with the proper equipment]. The world can speculate about Chris all day and night but only chris new what he was running to and not from, He touched the lives of thousands of people, Just like angels do
I am not a religious person. But very spiritual in nature. Chris walked with the animals, swam with the fish,and broke bread with new friends. Now he fly’s with the angels. R.I.P. christopher mccandless and thank you for your Journey.
Very well said Lee.
I can admire Chris’s determination, and even admire what he set out to do. But I can’t agree with how he did it. I’m one of those people who think Chris was foolish to go into the wilderness so ill-prepared. Common sense should have told him that certain precautions and preparations were necessary… but he let his desire to distance himself from civilization overpower whatever good sense he had.
But then, I could be one of those who has a rather strict “risk assessment” agenda. For example, the idea of going into the wilderness without a compass and/or a map is totally unacceptable. I would never even consider it. Hiking in the Adirondacks as a teen showed me how important a map can be. But apparently Chris didn’t think he needed a map or compass. I read somewhere that if he did have a map, he would have seen some crossable points, and perhaps a hand-powered ferry winch, on the Teklinika, within two miles of The Bus. On that day he decided to return to civilization, he would have emerged from the wild as a sickly, but ultimately much wiser man, who could have passed on his experiences, mixed with a healthy dose of caution. He would have survived, had he been carrying a map. Returning to the bus with no idea of where to go or what to do next, was a death sentence.
Chris may have thought he was prepared, but he was perhaps the only one on earth who did. The guy who gave him a ride into the park tried to talk him out of it, or at least try to get him to go to Anchorage for supplies. But Chris refused. It’s as it his sense of self-preservation had been overpowered by his desire to “live with nature.” Mother Nature is a very harsh mistress, and she doesn’t suffer fools. Chris learned that the hard way.
When I read the book about Chris’s travels and ultimate fate, I kept thinking “this guy is an idiot!” He was brave, determined, ambitious, and his ideals were most admirable. But all of that can be rendered moot in the absence of plain, good sense. Sorry, but Chris should have known better.
On the other hand, Dan, in reading about your travels, I’ve come away thinking “this guy is having one hell of a good time, and he knows what he’s doing!” You’re doing something similar to what Chris did, but you’re doing it right. I don’t think people should be looking as Chris for inspiration when it comes to fulfilling dreams. They should be looking to people like you, and other successful adventurers, who have followed their dreams… but had the good sense to be prepared.
As I write this, you’re somewhere in Guatemala, and still going. Godspeed!
-R
Hey RJ,
Thanks for the very detailed comment – I really like your point of view, but I think it’s a little dangerous towards the end 😉
I find it interesting you say that I am “doing it right” – what makes you come to that conclusion? – I think it’s only the fact that things have been going well so far. If I had been kidnapped in Mexico (or in fact, if I am still to be kidnapped) there will be an army of people to label me just as “stupid” as Chris – unprepared in not speaking Spanish and bringing a gun, etc, etc.
Same goes for my lack of knowledge on the Jeep & current political situations in different countries.
To give you something to think about, I went to the magic bus with no map or compass and no bear deterrent of any kind.
(Not that I recommend anyone else to do such a thing)
I chose how prepared I wanted to be and went for it. It worked out OK, so I’m not “stupid”.
It’s all about perspective.
-Dan
Hello Dan. Thanks for the reply.
It has come to be that the trek of mccandless is drawing a lot negative insight, about his being prepared to set forth on his journey, The question is how prepared can one be for setting out INTO THE WILD. This trek he was on was actually a quest, he had no intention of ever comig back. As far as supllies, a compass would have been good,High protein mre’s and antibiotic for those ugly bug bites and of course first aid kit. But even those items would have lasted only so long, He said he was going to alaska to LIVE not to hike or camp. A back pack can only hold so much. The one thing that confused me more than anything about his journey was it did not mention fish at all, he was surrounded
by water in every direction, If you are going to live with the animals, learn from them, even they have to be nourished, I am leaving in june to go to alberta on a 300 mile tributary following that will put me in some very dangerous and thick places even by kayaking, I will have to survive on what i bring and the rest i will have to earn. But I plan on coming back until my next adventure.
As far as chris goe’s I have no opinion because I cant’t mock what I do not understand.
I truly admire him. And I enjoy follwing your journey. KEEP ON KEEPING ON! THANKS.
Lee, you are totally right that a backpack can only hold so much. Chris wanted to live off that land and was trying to do that. In the book, Krakauer pretty much throws down a challenge for anyone to go and live completely self-sufficiently in the woods, saying it’s pretty darn difficult and only a very few people can do it for a long period of time.
It sounds like you are about to set out on an amazing adventure yourself! I hope you keep a diary and write about it in some form or other. I’d love to read about it.
All the best, enjoy the wilds!
-Dan
thanks!
I keep a diary for every day life, there are so many things around you that can be remembered by others. I needed solitude about 7 years ago so for a year and a half I lived on a boat that had a cabin not much bigger than a pop up camper, There I wrote in a journal frequently. My 3 older brothers ask me for the journal to hard bound. They stayed in trouble growing up and just did not understand me.
so I told thim when ever you have a hard time seeing where i am coming from on the way I handle things [read the journal for the answers ]. They now keep many pictures, and magazine articles written on some of my whirl wind adventures as people call them. I just recently have been published in a book in georgia on a number of my experiences and wild game recipes that i have fabricated in my years as an executive chef. I keep the journals to help the writers have a mental pictoral of each step. when I am not traveling I am constantly dreaming on another excursion. My wife and my newly adopted first child of 10 years old are very supportive and he can’t wait to tag along. He practices on his edurance every day. I would like to send some pics of past experiances if that’s ok.
Wow, Lee, just wow. You are and have been living the dream for many years. I’d love to see you blogging and sharing tales and photos for the world to see! I’ll send you an email so you can send me some pics.
Hey Dan,
I sent some pics to your e-mail and I am working on building a web site for my son to maintain and keep updated, He is excited. For anybody who my be interested in the study of grizzly’s I just found out from a biologist that if you are ill such as cancer,or any inner body infection a bear will not attack you unless you are provoking it. This was an experiment i witnessed first hand. The bear will just sniff up close and then back up and walk away. It was very interesting. maybe that is why chris servived as long as he did without conflict. Who knows, but interesting none the less. thought for the day!!
never over think nor under react, focus on the journey ahead never set a destination just a resting point.
Lee – thanks for the photos, they were great.
Very interesting about the bear thing, I have not heard that before.
Chris was an adventurer without a clue noone tackles the Alaskan wild without so much as a compass and map, had he brought either one of these he would have easily walked out of there. There is nothing worse than wasted youth. This is a great example of it! In my eyes he could’ve saved himself the suffering and hanged himself if he wanted to die that bad, he went out there to die plain and simple!
Certainly many people share your opinion, I am not one of them.
As of doing my research, he did have a map. You now may ask, “Well, why didn’t he use it?” Do you use a map every time you go somewhere you have gone before? He knew where he was, he knew what was around him. He was at a place he felt comfortable.
When you are starving, and you have no energy, can you really go that far? I fully understand what you are saying here physicman, and in a part, I can agree with some.
How are you positive he went out there to die? Were you there? Some people believe so strongly in something they are apt to willingly or unwillingly become a martyr for that cause. Martyr is not a term reserved for religion only. He just happened to be the type of person who was somewhat stubborn and didn’t give up.
There are a lot of things he should or shouldn’t have done. The same applies to us all.
Is his real jornal published?
Not that I’ve ever been able to find, John. Many people around the net are asking for it, I assume his family has it and I think Krakauer also has read it (not certain on that)
Well the weekend is over and my favorite hiking trail is 15 feet under water,Thanks mother nature.
so I loaded my pack and set out saturday morning, I wanted to walk 10 or so miles, I was amazed at the people who would stop and asked where I was going and did I need a ride, I replied no thanks im local and just conditioning for my upcoming trip. Then road i took was flat and comfortable with lots of rivers and bridges, I hiked to a friends house 20miles away, took most of the day but it was nice outside. temp in the mid 60’s, I took some nices pics and my friend and I drove back to the cabin
and drove the atv’s all day sunday taking pics I will send you some more this week. We are under severly high river stages right now. lots of places under water.
Wow Lee, you are really getting out there in the thick of it! Nice one.
i am a senior and am so inspired by the story of chris Mcandales so i am doing my senior project on the subject a walk into the wild. i was wondering if anyone is excpirenced enought to maybe let me interveiw them. it could be by e-mail doesnt matter any help is highly appriciated. thank you.
E-mail: xomallaryox@yaoo.com
Hey Mallary,
I’m by no means an expert, but if you fire some questions my way I’ll try my best to help out any way I can.
Hey Dan,
I am amazed at the people that once called me crunchy granola or tree hugger, Now are interested in my passion with nature and survival in the wild, it is the greatest thing to be asked questions, only to give answers that were once deemed weird, passions run deep into the interior of the soul.
Chris mccandless has had an awesome effect on people who needed something to grasp a hold of.
The only form of art that is admired thre most,
is the picture painted with the eyes
and applied to the mind. [ the real canvas ]
LEE 02/12/2010
This will be posted on the journal within one year, if fairbanks keeps the bus.
speculations have it they are tired of the visitation. [ shame on them]
I should buy the bus and put in a safer place to see for every one to enjoy.
let’s see what happens ! that is a work of art not just a bus.
All it would take is a helicopter, flatbed semi trailer and money, and it’s done!
Im sure fairbanks would like the revenue as well as the natives.
In my time growing up I have spent money on things of lesser meaning.
any feed back would be nice.
Hey Lee,
I have heard that locals are sick of the visitors to the bus, or more specifically sick of them getting into trouble and needing help. I personally think the bus should be left exactly where it is. It’s hard to get to and a rewarding trip for those that can make it. If they do decide to remove it, I think it would be an amazing thing to buy it and put it somewhere that people can continue to admire it and learn of Chris and his adventures.
I can see why he wanted to go to Alaska. It looks beautiful. I recently watched the movie and was inspired to write alittle something on here. I seen a video of somone going to the bus in 2008. And noticed that someone had trashed it out. That is sad . Question does the people that he met in his travels there still go to the bus? Just wondering. I wonder do his parents and sister visit there ever so offten? In all the sad there is some Good. He inspired alot of people ! Maybe one day I will go and visit the Bus. Be safe in your travels and may God Bless!!!!!!!
Hey Rex, I don’t know how often the people from Chris’ life visit the bus, though I know Jon Krakauer and Chris’ sister have been there many many times. The book mentions a visit by his parents the year after his passing. I don’t know if they ever went back.
Look , I’m going to weigh in on this , and doubtless my words an opinion will be unpopular. No matter if just one individual heeds what I say and is saved from some degree of trouble.
I’ve a great deal of experience in Alaska , including in the area north of the Park , the bus has been there since the early sixties , the Stampede trail hasn’t been used much by fourwheeled vehicles outside of atvs or heavy duty fourwheel drives , very few of which can get across the Tek since that time.
Those of you that are characterising Chris McCandless as some sort of religious figure are way , way off base. He was foolish , naive ,ill prepared in both basic knowledge and basic equipment. He had little to no idea what he was getting into. His death while almost inevitable and could have been easily avoided , by dieing such a martyrs death he deprived us all of the potential positive things he may well have accomplished. And in doing so he spawned infinitely more naive individuals who will go in unprepared for what they may face.
Look folks , here’s a dose of reality for you. Living bush can be highly rewarding , that said , what can be ordinary and survivable mistakes in civilisation of it’s fringes can have tragic consequences in the bush. Cut yourself , get it infected.you may die. Fall through the ice and have no dry clothes you will die , run out of matches and have no fire source you may well die , break and ankle or leg you may well die , come down with the flu etc and you can’t get out and have no radio…you may die , run out of the proper nutrition…you may die. Don’t watch your backtrail while running your trapline and encounter the wrong bear …you may die…..
ALaska is a beautiful mistress , she will provide you with many rewards if you heed the lessons she will teach you , but should you ignore those lessons she can be a vengeful shrew who will whirl upon you and rend you for ignoring those lessons.
She will test you constantly ,long and hard. The rewards for passing those tests are many and found no other place on Earth , the penalty for failing those tests is quite often pain and suffering and just as often DEATH.
Perhaps folks need to read the old Robert Service poem that’s apropos to this case , it speaks quite succinctly of how She does not suffer fools gladly , of how she will provide for those who heed her lessons and approach her sirens call with caution and commonsense , it also speaks of how she will grind and spit the bones of fools out upon the land , some NEVER to be found.
Learn the lessons available , this is NOT a place to be mucking about unprepared.
Bluesman
Hey Bluesman, thanks for the detailed comment, I really appreciate it. I agree with you 100% that the wilderness can be harsh an any false moves can result in death. There are no second chances.
I find it fascinating that so many people call Chris ‘unprepared’ and therefore foolish. I think Chris wanted to test himself and see how little he could survive with and what he could do without. Lets face it, almost any idiot with $100K can get to the top of Everest being herded up there and sometimes quite literally carried with all their space-age gear.
I think the real challenge are those that attempt it with the minimum of gear and support and that is exactly what Chris set out to do.
Very well said!
This was beautiful. Chris has inspired my life so much. I’m actually doing a little tribute to him himself. I love to see other people so deeply moved, and willing to share those experiences with others. Thank you for sharing this. Thank you for doing this. It is my dream to go to Alaska, hike the trail and swim the trek. I wish Chris didn’t have to die, but in a way I’m almost glad. It sounds demented I know, but would any of us know who Chris was if he had lived? His experiences would not have lessened, don’t get me wrong, and I would have loved to heard his story from him, but we can’t. And I know it sounds sacrilegious, but it is almost as he is almost greater because he died, like a martyr, or something.
Hey Marissa – I’m glad you liked reading about my time at the bus. I really hope you make it there one day. For those experienced in wilderness travel it’s an amazing place. I would have preferred if Chris had lived to share his message and tell the world how he felt, but certainly there is a lot we can learn all the same.
So while he died all spiritual and poetic and back to nature like, it was other people that endured the trauma of discovering and recovering his worm ridden, fly blown, carcass. I’m sorry, but there’s nothing romantic about going off into the bush to die from lack of common sense. This had as much tact as Timothy Treadwell getting himself and his girlfriend devoured by bears because he felt he was “one” with them.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timothy_Treadwell
Hey Al, thanks for sharing your thoughts. My friend sitting next to me wonders if you take that view of the world, is there anything romantic or really worth trying (and maybe dying) for?
Al man, not trying to be rude but it sounds like you sleep with a night light.
THEY CALL IT RISK FOR A REASON
Any body can die at any time and most of them that do are not following a dream or passion.
It’s all about life and how we choose to live.
WE SHOULD NOT MOCK WHAT WE DO NOT UNDERSTAND.
I fully agree, Lee.
I also happen to think Timothy, no matter how sad, was a bit more risk taking than Chris. I by no means am calling him an idiot (I reserve that word for people who deserve it), but I find his case a bit more unintelligent than Chris’. Then again, your mind can make you believe something so strongly that you yourself begin to believe it. And it can drive you crazy (I’ve been there).
I also have a bad habit of forgetting not many people have the same thinking pattern as I do.
Common sense is not so common. There are people who are highly intelligent and lack common sense. The way things work (mind wise) in nature aren’t the same way they are when you’re around people.
So, Al, as much as you are right for what you say about the people who found him, think about this. What if they were reading how you described it? I know it’s something they will never forget, and I’m sure they don’t need it rubbed in their faces. May I ask how you were to feel if you found a deceased body in a somewhat disturbing (to some) manner? And someone said to you “Oh man, did you hear about that guy/girl who was mutilated and burned and tortured and they had to I.D. them by their dental records because they’re s**t was so f***ed up? ” But remember, YOU were the one that found them. Honestly, how would that make you feel? How would you reply? What would you think of? That image would be with you forever.
Stop and think, Al. Not to attack you, but my question is, what I just said, the scenario I described, isn’t NOT saying something like what you said common sense?
I hope you never, ever are put into a situation like that.
I believe that at some point we all try to disassociate ourselves from things we don’t believe in. I think that’s why there is people like us, who trek out into nature to find some solitude and comfort. Some of us are prepared, some of us believe we can learn as we go. As the latter may be true, there is still a level of knowledge that we need to begin with.
I believe Chris had this knowledge, and since he knew he was going to do this, had a level of awareness on what could happen to him. There are a few theories about what lead to his death by starvation. At this point, does it matter what led to it? He was courageous enough to begin to make his dream, fully aware of the consequences.
There comes a point, though, where doing what you love can be a burden or drive you crazy. Those of us who love to travel and camp, learn and teach others; we are tight knit. Regardless if we know each other for a day or for a lifetime. This is the impact Chris had on people. A lot of us didn’t even know him, but we felt a connection because we are looking for the same thing, just in different manners.
I believe he was a highly intelligent person. You don’t decide one day on a whim to go on an adventure. There is planning involved. He wasn’t an idiot, he wasn’t stupid. Granted he made mistakes, as we all do. To say he went into this blindly is a lie. Even decisions we make in a second, we still think about. When someone asks you to say yes or no, your mind is fully aware of what is going on, and you say what you believe is the right answer, whether it be for yourself or the other person. We are constantly thinking and playing out scenarios. We think about things before they happen, so we are somewhat at a starting point for being prepared.
I don’t think Chris wanted to be an idol of some form. He was just a man trying to live out his life in the way he chose. We all look for that. His life was where life truly begins, with nature. For those of us who feel the comfort and serenity of it, this is where our connection with Chris lies. This is why we travel to the bus and other places he’s been. If it felt like a form of home to him, and wanderers like us get a form of happiness from going to places others like us have been.
His story will live on, though it might be to a select number of people. But the whole point of adventure is learning and knowing you aren’t alone.
Wow Catherine, I agree with you so much I’m smiling from ear to ear after reading that.
Happy adventures!
Glad to know I can (still) make people smile. (Un)fortunately (not quite sure if it’s good or bad) there are people who don’t understand the connection between people like us. My first real adventure was a road trip from where I live (Ohio) to Portland, Oregon. No reason, really. Just to learn. The drive was amazing. When you drive past a train going up a hill, you can’t help but be amazed and wish you were on that train to experience it. Well, me anyway.
Despite some problems, we stayed out there for four months living in hotels, hostels, tents, and the back of the GMC Jimmy. It wasn’t because we had to, it’s because we wanted to. I, most of all, wanted the experience. I was 18 when I took this trip. We got lost, a lot. We weren’t to prepared for what was ahead of us. But, is anyone truly prepared for everything and anything? This is why I love learning. You prepare for the next time. Sometimes, however, that isn’t an option. Not very happy to think about, but it is a part of life.
The people we met were amazing. They stayed with us long after we left. You begin to know the people who will impact you and those who won’t. You can tell the difference between those you know you will get along with and those you wont.
Travel teaches you a lot, which is why I won’t be stopping any time soon.
I would be more than happy to tell you about Oregon in it’s entirety. Just let me know if you want to hear it. I love hearing about other peoples travels.
Enjoy your trip. I hope all is well.
Very very cool.
I like that you mention you lived in your truck or wherever purely because you wanted to. When I told some people at my last job what I was setting out to do, one guy genuinely apologized to me because he was sorry I would have to live in a tent for a year 😀
I tried to explain I was looking forward to that so much, but he just didn’t understand.
I’ve been to Oregon about three different times now and really like it there. I haven’t seen it all yet, but I’ll go back one day I’m sure.
-Dan
Like so many in their 20’s, I was captured by a potent mix of idealism, daring, and desire for the truth of experience. This resulted in both adventures of my own and befriending (which happens incredibly fast on the trail) individuals with stories as incredible as Chris’s. Who has listened to tales of adventure at some social gathering and gone on with life the next day because the narrator was alive and well? Something about death and the unanswered question have the power to transform.
Perhaps in death we honor the spirit through the person–the intangible through the tangible. After all, t’s unnatural to find the ethereal in flesh and blood before us.
Having just entered my forties, I am beginning to learn how incredibly deep relationships can become when you alow them–those you have with children of your own especially. By comparison, my 20’s appear rather carefree and self-involved.
I am very happy for Chris that he could declare to have found his happiness, but I am haunted by the passage in the film that shows him writing (someone help me remember this right) that ‘happiness only has meaning when shared’. By declaring happiness was he making peace or making a discovery? I can’t help but wonder what more he might of made out his existence had he lived through his voyage of self discovery, spiritual awakening, or whatever it was that drove him.
I believe he may have found himself just before his death. Had Chris been able to return his found self to family and friends they would have been spared a great sorrow (I doubt they have a romanticized remeberance). Perhaps, had he lived, we would not have his story to make us wonder, and Chris could be alive today, enjoying a meaningful relationship with his children and others that far outshines, in his personal experience, the story he is goaded to tell at a Fourth of July picnic, of traveling from Mexico to Alaska, that is listened to with interest by a neighbor’s friend and then forgotten a month later.
Blessings to Chirs, a man generous enough to bless the rest of us in his last days.
Rick, I’m pretty sure the quote is “Happiness is best when shared”.
Thanks for the thoughtful comments – I totally agree the world would be better off had Chris survived to spread his message in person to his family and friends.
Yeah, I tend to think Chris’s time as ‘Alex’ was most likely very healing and revealing; and his next chapter in life would have been wonderful for him.
To me, this is the tragedy.
Yesterday I came across the remembrance card from the funeral of a friend, traveler, and lover of nature:
“The heart has it’s reasons for which reason knows nothing of”
-Pascal
“let us be grateful to people who make us happy; they are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom”
-Proust
His ashes were scattered at an overlook on the Appalacian Trail, and a plaque commemorating his life was placed there.
A common thread found amongst travelers is that they are seekers. But not everyone is seeking the same thing. Some seek truth. But noble pursuits are not always the case. Some seek escape. My friend was a sensitive soul who never found harmony outside of nature. Nature may have been his only comfot. It’s difficult to see a troubled soul because they can be more capable of eminaitng fun, thoughtfulness, sincerity, and wisdom than the contented person.
Sometimes a seeker never finds what they are looking for, and gives up all hope of finding it in life. It’s painful to know that in spite of all the people who loved him and would have helped him, he was unable to find, maybe even unaware of this available comfort or other reasons enough to continue his own life.
When I think of his plaque, I envision it seen by someone who was not looking for it, but in conjunction with what is at a minimum a beautiful visual experience, hopefully enhancing it. It has the power to bring one to tears. It is pointless to tell where it is or what the plaque says– the real power for those who never knew him occurs upon it’s discovery mixing into their experience. Don’t ask where it is, it is a gem to be found by the seeker. And sometimes we find gems when we are not looking.
I have mixed feeling about the Magic Bus being a destination. I understand the need for those that knew him personally to go there for answers, personal reflection, and a last goodbye or another hello. I also understand the shared connection amongst kindred spirits. Such people are seeking something beyond. But the bus has also been reduced to a destination for voyeurs. Are t-shirts coming?
In a world of full of experience and connection, my hat is off to the seeker, not the consumer. What Chris may have or have been about is a subject worthy of an internet forum, not a road trip. Go to Alaska if you wish but for yourself and no one else. I encourage everyone to be bold and have their own unique experiences.
This is such an incredible thing you have done. I’ve always been a person who loves adventure and ever since I’ve seen the movie, I have always wanted to visit the Magic Bus, but questioned if it was possible or not, which the river crossings and everything. I’m only 15 now but I really hope I do this. Thank you so much for posting your story!
Hey Iora, I’m really happy you can draw inspiration from Chris’ story and my visit to the bus.
Getting there requires a lot of back country wilderness travel expertise – I suggest you start practicing ASAP so you will be ready when the time comes!
why is this book just made comments abut how/why/what abut what he did and nothing more deep(philospical/ideas/ creative open minded rants) ? like a how too hand book for do the same
or more thinking abut it books or websites? like thoure?(or wahtever you write the name )survalelist/libertaian like ideas (whitoute the anti goverment/liberel demagogic thinking) and existenalism like things ? or somthing like lonly planet /trailbalzer guidbooks? or somthing more thugtfule stuff like hakim beys TAZ/PAZ books(ideas on how and why to leave boring consumer culture/big city life and make you owen place/idea/travel)? is it any websites or books?
Hey Backpacker, I think Jon K. covered some of those points you mention, but mostly he was telling Chris’ story.
There are tons of websites out there discussion those points, I think Google is a good starting point.
any links you will recomand ?got a bit disepointed by the book since its more or less a cult book by backpackers why it did not have more pilosphy ideas or sugestions it is feeling more like a mix of modern huckelberry finn a police report and survaivelist manual
survalist manuels is ofen more technical then realy usefull they just on how too do it and not why and what to do ,i think you can do the same whit backpack and a guidbook or squat somthing and a comupter (or are computers wher you can have your books, ideas and comunciate if you get lonely anti in to the wild ?) not need to build somthing
yes i did read the book just suprised it did not have a update chapter after the popularety whit some refferance to more deep stuff (like wikipeida artickel had before link to the guy live in a cottage 1 year in the early 1800 and after som click you end up one the uanabomber manifesto that could have some of the some attitude)live simpe and l indepent (but of course more voilent and angry/blow up evrything becuse i cant make my owen travel/cottage/homestead/bookshelf of jack london/thoure/coulter-antitax books)i dont think his book are a back-to-stone-age kind of book at least i did not read it. i did read like a existenlaistick indepdent anti confomisitic book maybe a book for very smart ppl (iq140?) ppl that not fit in to the consumer culuture and work ethic becuse they have read too many books are to independent and think further then the avrage person(80% of the ppl have 100 iq) btw if he did not get dead would he not be just a other person you meet in mexico that wuld not have any influnce and not be a prophet… mexico villages amaricans that want to do somthing difrence and away for some years find ther sould buy a homestad in kansas or use some lsd or read nitzche and live by it but dont have the time/mony/guts to go somwher in a difreten culture(new gunia /venuzela rain forest/ laos tribe) and learn the langues and live ther or do as crihs did ?
sorry for my enghlis
hope this did get to many qausitisn in the short space 
Hey Backpacker,
I have not read really anything on the topics you mention – I very much like true adventure stories so I’m perfectly happy reading “how to do it, not why” as you say. I think the choices we all make about being in the consumer society or trying something different are motivated by ten million different things, each of them different for every person.
I hope you find some answers in your search.
Gem of a read…Sailing alone around the world, by Joshua Slocumb (Al. spellings: Solcomb, Slocombe), the first human to perform, let alone seriously contemplate, such a feat.
Dan, he has some very vivid descriptions of Tierra Del Fuego (he rounded the horn via the straights of magellan), especially of his encounters with the “locals”. It’d be interesting to hear your thoughts on what a century plus has done to the place, should you get a chance to read it forehand.
-r
PS., no offense intended the previous post, rather an addition of perspective to what it clearly inspiration.
1
Thanks for the suggestion Rick, It’s now on my must-read list.
Hello there.
Im desperate for some one to ask some questions about your trip if you dont mind me asking!
Im just new to reading into the wild and seeing the movie. Im greatly inspired by chris and would love to follow in your footsteps and see the magic bus. I feel like i almost need to, its now one of my goals.
How did you go about finding the bus and start your adventure to find it. What are some things i would need to know like any restrictions. Im also wondering if the bus is the same one chris himself stayed in. I would love to hear some feedback. Thank you! Amber
Hey Amber, I’m more than happy to answer any questions you have. Getting to the bus was a huge goal of mine and I love helping other people however I can. Finding the bus is not difficult – Stampede Rd starts just near the town of Healy and all you have to do is follow that road all the way to the bus. The road gets worse and worse until it’s impossible to drive and you have to continue on foot. The bus is technically not inside Denali National Park (very close) so as far as I know, there are no restrictions of any kind.
It would be worth asking the rangers there for local conditions on the rivers, etc. as they are the most knowledgeable in the area.
You absolutely want to be experienced in wilderness travel, river crossings, bear encounters, bugs, hiking, camping, etc, etc.
If you do not have experience in those things, I suggest you start practicing now so you are ready when you get to Alaska.
Absolutely it’s the same bus Chris spent time in – the plaque placed there by his family shows that very clearly.
If there’s anything else I can help with, feel free to ask.
-Dan
Thanks to Dan for helping focus interest, information, and most importantly, discussion.
What originally captured me were the thoughts expressed by Chris regarding society. I see what he saw.
Though, like him I marvel at how great our society is. Chris intuitively knew the “Super Apple” he consumed was cultivated by our society, just as the mind of Thoreau was cultivated by our society before he produced the thoughts paraphrased by Chris. Yes, Chris was ultimately ill prepared for the Jack London like experience of Alaska and THAT may be a tribute to his idealism. Though even then, he relied on his society for shelter, (the bus), a gun and a book for food.
He was intelligent enough to understand, that though he wished to leave things behind, as in the bar scene he suggests “no axe”, he did bring several important material articles he knew he had to have in order to survive.
The tragedy of his death, though, serves his society in ways he probably never imagined.
Thank you for your thoughts Llyod, I really like them.
Thanks so much, i hope to be going this summer but i dont have that much experince just some camping trips here and there so ill for shure have to start practicing.
From your pictures it looks like you had an amazing trip.
Chris is defintaly an insperation to people everywhere, i think this would be a great way to honor him also an amazing experince!
Thanks again for all of your helpful information
You’re very welcome for the info Amber. If there is anything else you need to know, just ask.
Absolutely you need to have a solid amount of hiking/camping experience to set out to the magic bus, it’s quite the journey and seriously far away from any form of help.
Hi,
I really want to do this trek and go to the magic bus Im wondering if i was to do it all on foot i suppose i would need a tent to camp if its going to take at least two days is it suitable to camp? i would just generally like some advice if i was to walk the whole way
Hey Meg,
Hmm. I thinking you mean to hike all the way from the highway to the bus. I think most people drive up the road a ways before setting out because the road is in good shape for a long way. I’m certain you could get a local to drive you up (it will only take 15 mins) and then you can set out hiking. I read in the diary that many people take 2 days to hike in, no problems at all, great camp sites the entire way.
If you talk to locals about it, make certain you are very very well prepared, they are sick of helping lost/unprepared people that want to go to the bus and will probably try to convince you not to go.
I am heading to AK for a week or so with my brother in Aug this year. We have several places we want to visit and hike so we booked an RV to establish a base camp for some of our hikes. We are both avid backpackers, he thru hiked the AT couple years ago and I was wondering the milage to the bus. I have hiked close to 20 miles per day on the AT with full week supply of gear and the hike to the bus I will be only packing a daypack to keep my weight down and speed up. Question is can an RV make it a little way down stampede road? Also what kind of milage and elevation gain can I expect on the road.
Hey Sly, you sound like a guy that will make it
Absolutely, the first 5 or so miles of stampede road are sealed, then it’s a good gravel road for another few miles. Around the time it gets worse there are plenty of pull offs where we saw people camping in RV’s for the 4th of July weekend. It would be ideal to park and hike from here. I think the hike from there would be around 20-25 miles and from what I read in the diary, most people take two days to hike in from here, although it won’t be very hard.
The elevation gain is very small and the hiking easy for the most part, except for crossing the Tek. I think it would be OK in Aug. and it’s worth asking the rangers in Denali about the local river conditions. I imagine the nights will be pretty cold too!
Good luck, stay safe & let me know how your trip goes.
-Dan
hey dan have u ever listened to the soundtrack from eddie vedder
Every day for many months. The first time I heard “society” after my visit to the bus I had shivers running down my spine
hey dan, have listened to the entire CD if u close your eyes and listen it is as u are with chris in his mind and he reflects on society and purpose of life. How eddie vedder creates such lyrics just amazes me and takes on the advnture mentaly and emotionally i feel present. i listen to it when i run in the valleys when i go to sleep at night and it just gives me a whole new perspective on life and its meaning, the thoughts behind Vedders lyrics are the most amazing ever penned.Any feedback?
Mike – I agree wholeheartedly. It really is an amazing CD and I too listen to it to take myself back to the bus and thoughts of Chris. It never fails to lift my spirits and give me the courage to continue on.
hey dan thanks, im ahigh school teacher and own my own bussines and when i get caught up in all the beuracratic bs that our society has to offer it makes me yearn for an experience like this. Problem is i have a wife and 3 kids that cant relate. Any advice
has anyone listened to eddie vedders soundtrack to the movie the entire soundtrack is some of the most beautiful music and lyrics ever penned …if you close your eyes and just listen to it u feel like u are ther with chris it is amazing
Dan ,love your sharing and your view of Christopher McCandless’s adventure as a rational behavior.
Actually, I also don’t want to judge him as navie ,though I disagree with his radical ideas about the so called “material society”, his pure intent to make his own dream come ture and persistence is what I respect.
PS:great pic at the magic bus , wish one day I could sit there like you : )
Chris was anti-social…who did not appreciate the value of civilization because of his own misinterpretations of “life”. All of you patchouli wearing, granola bar chomping, tree hugging, birkenstock wearing, “wilderness tracking” hippies, need to self evaluate your worth, and realize that you should probably share Chris’ untimely fate due to lack of worth to the human race…..Peace to all, my hippy friends
Ben, I find it interesting you come out so strong and criticize a way of life some people have chosen, when they have said nothing of the sort about yours.
Live and let live a little too hard for you to manage?
I like my clothes, my food, my “birkenstock”; i love trees and nature in general, tracking across the wilderness; as to my self worth, i think i am no more humbler or haughty than anyone else (perhaps a little too egotistical); I am not antisocial but i share Chris’ beliefs (or i imagine i do), and last but not least, i realize all too well my place in society. I realize all too well my place.
in fact the only thing i dont like is your tone… 😛
i wana visit the magic bus 2
I was in Talkeetna, Alaska at the same time that Chris was dying in the bus. I had just finished a three week solo in Denali. Chris was simply unprepared for what he’d gotten himself into. It’s a sad story.
I have read so many opinions of Chris, and every one differs in some way. I think this shows how different all of us are and how we all have our own ideals and specific values in this world. Personally, I respect Chris immensely for what he did – He had lived in what he viewed as a poisoned society for so many years, and left fullspeed as soon as he could – i think he had been planning this for a long time, longer than some suspect. A reader of Thoreau, Tolstoy, London – he had his own philosophy of life that involved the wilderness in us all, the need for freedom from this controlling society and the spirit of adventure of someone still young enough to physically and mentally fulfill his dreams.
When people talk of his seemingly naive ignorance of the danger and risk, i feel that they just cannot or do not want to understand him, and what was important to him. You cant put a price on freedom and the act of living, truly living – he realized this and acted upon it. No map? He wanted to explore, like explorers of old, who set forth in wooden ships to blindly sail to somewhere they had no knowledge of. His unpreparedness did not showcase his ignorance or stupidity; rather it proves his dedication to find out for himself who he was and what he was capable of, without the need of modern technology. There is an element of animalism in this – shown by Primo Levi in one of his short stories (someone to read for sure) “To find yourself at least once in the most ancient of human conditions. Facing the blind death stone alone, with nothing to help you but your hands and your own head” This was in the movie and the book, and it adds another angle to Chris’ personality.
This is a brief opinion of mine of his opinion, and i feel that this represents my own philosophy. This is how everyone has a different view of Chris – our opinions of him all reflect our own ideas and thoughts, because through our thoughts is the only way we can feel we understand those of his. I am 17 years old, and the day after i graduate from highschool i am backpacking/hitchiking/train hopping wherever i feel at the time, at whatever speed i like. Money is irrevelant in the kind of adventure i seek. I am sick of this society, and i too am leaving it behind.
Right on Quinton – thanks for that man I really appreciate your thoughts!
Hi Dan.
I have been seriously considering making this trip for some time but life constantly gets in the way. This is something I have felt I had to do for a long time now and the feeling is indescribable, although I am sure you know it. I was wondering if I could use you as a starting point in both planning my trip and also any additional advice you could give me.
Hi Dan,
Absolutely. Start out by gaining as much experience as you can in the backcountry – it’s very remote and help is very far away. Let me know what specific questions you have and I’ll do my best to help.
Have fun!
-Dan
This fairly well sums up the actuality of the experience:
• • • • •
Alaskan Park Ranger Peter Christian wrote:
“I am exposed continually to what I will call the ‘McCandless Phenomenon.’ People, nearly always
young men, come to Alaska to challenge themselves against an unforgiving wilderness land-
scape where convenience of access and possibility of rescue are practically nonexistent […]
When you consider McCandless from my perspective, you quickly see that what he did wasn’t
even particularly daring, just stupid, tragic, and inconsiderate. First off, he spent very little time
learning how to actually live in the wild. He arrived at the Stampede Trail without even a map of
the area. If he [had] had a good map he could have walked out of his predicament […]
Essentially, Chris McCandless committed suicide…”
• link to validate ranger’s comment:
http://nmge.gmu.edu/textandcommunity/2006/Peter_Christian_Response.pdf
{A good simple and practically free second-hand book in map & compass orienting
and a few more thoughtful learning experiences elsewhere may have turned this
sad fated story into a better coming-of-age-story; instead of a tragic misadventure.}
Too bad he was truly uninformed and unprepared for the wildland survival experience
that the great white north brings. Winter, harsh & subzero, more than 6 months long.
I’ve lived and worked in many remote and inspiring regions of Alaska; but was never
here for the money. If I’d have failed as miserably and died in an old bus, I’d be eternally
ashamed of the wasted education funds mu family had wasted on my behalf; had I been
this character. And I have met thousands of them. Some end up living in Anchorage.
And I am a real person, living without running water and sometimes no electricity; no
cell phone, and occasional access to a computer when visiting Little America, urban AK.
Think seriously before going on an emotional-based trip. You may as well stay at home
and watch the Nat’l Geo channel. Or, gear up your mind and learn tons of facts about life.
Sincerely,
in a small town (AK)
Hey In a Small Town,
I totally understand your point of view, and can see why you believe Chris essentially committed suicide.
When guys climb Everest without oxygen they are intentionally not taking something that would make their trip much easier and safer because they are looking for more of a challenge than going with oxygen provides. Sometimes those guys get seriously injured or die, but I don’t view that as suicide and I don’t think what Chris did was either.
I would love to hear from you’re perspective why you think suicide isn’t what Chris did in the least, and also would love nothing more than for you to help me wrap my mind around how a magical man in your situation can actually sit there, stomach the rage that I know you must have felt upon reading numbnuts’ comment up there, and actually utter the word ‘respect’ anywhere in the vicinity of what he had to say. I mean the collectedness one must have to possess to manage something with such gravity positively blows my mind— as I can relate only to Chris in ways of reason and in a similar quest for profound beauty that I have yet to find in this world I choose to surround myself with— when you’ve lived it in his memory and profound realism just seeps from every picture and blog on your page . I cannot even harness the willpower to address this clown in any way, because it physically hurts me PHYSICALLY HURTS ME to imagine how miserable this guy’s life must be to actually possess the fkn (pardon my French) audacity to sit there, allegedly living the same lifestyle as Chris did originally, and blab so much hypocritical garbage in that sense that I could actually puke everywhere upon reading it if I had anything in my stomach right now.
I FEEL that if you continued to fail miserably at life and died and that old bus, you SHOULD be eternally ashamed of the wasted bucks your family put into your sorry sense of intellect because based on what I’m reading all it’s done is give you an inability to ration with anything sensical and the compulsive need to make no sense what-so-ever. The whole point is that he knew it’s what he wanted to do with his life, he fully acknowledged and accepted the risks that WERE to come with it, and he died trying to LIVE— which I’m sure is more than you could say for your sorry excuse of a life being a “real person, living without running water and sometimes no electricity; no cell phone, and occasional access to a computer when visiting” when on the real, 1, you don’t even deserve water so good choices, 2, you are probably a hideous human and that’s why you live on the outskirts of this world, unlike Chris who just couldn’t handle breathing in people’s like yours stupidity any longer and you SHOULD remain in the darkness, and 3, you just seem like a fantastic individual so I have no idea why you wouldn’t want a phone when so many people probably want to be your friend. And you really must be living large when you take it upon yourself to abuse thesse rare computer visits pissing people off. Yes, I accept that I am doing exactly that by writing this reply, but I don’t claim to be living any sense of a fulfilled life nor am I okay with that. But reading your simply idiotic travesty of a perception pushes me so close to the edge I’d be better off dropping out of HIGH SCHOOL tomorrow and pulling a Chris McCandless just so I wouldn’t have to keep my eyes open in society every day knowing that I’m walking around choosing to tolerate a place where NINCUMPOOOOPS are even given free speech in the first place. Ill admit straight up theres ‘tons of facts about life’ I don’t know and don’t care to know to be quite frank but ill be able to go to bed later on tonight after my blood pressure lowers knowing that I know a hell of a lot more about living than a GENTLEMAN and SCHOLAR such as your apparent self.
And maybe I WILL watch the National Geographic channel cause that shit is just plain AWESOME.
Good riddance,
A very angry and opinionated soul
Hi Very Angry and Opinionated Soul,
I understand why you feel about Chris the way you do. I, too, am awed by his bravery and ambition and intelligence and magic. He WAS magic and anyone who has the balls to do what he did is…well, there’s not a good enough word for it. But I also understand the opposite side…why would someone go into the wild so ill prepared? I don’t think Chris wanted to die. And I think the park ranger who commented above you probably sees a lot of people doing a lot of stupid crap. If I was Chris, I probably would have tried to figure out a way to cross the river or…who knows???? But the only person who knew what really happened and knew what was going on inside his head is Chris and he’s gone.
He was happy and he had a good life…that’s good enough for me.
Nice thoughts Lisa, thanks for sharing.
With regard to crossing the river.. when I crossed in early July the water was high enough to be scary.. I certainly didn’t want to be there alone.
If it had been much higher, we would not have made it across, so I can understand Chris getting stranded on the “wrong” side.
-Dan
In part, I wish I hadn’t found this site. My 27 year old son is on the Stampede trail as of yesterday, alone, and wanting to get to the bus. He, fortunately, has maps, compass, GPS, but you never know what the river will be like this time of year, according to his and my research. To him, it’s an adventure with a plan to be safely back to civilization in a couple of weeks. I understand the connection, emotions, and intrigue of Chris’ story and death. I have read the book, seen the movie, and hoped over the years that my son would lose his interest in experiencing the hike to the bus and whatever connectedness he might find there. With any luck and his perseverance, he will arrive back to cell coverage later this month and I’ll hear his happy voice on the other end. It seems as though many of you who have written have chosen to do the trek with a companion-likely a wise choice. If you any of you are now or will be a parent in the future, you’ll understand what the MacCandless family must have felt.
To my son and those who travel the trail, “be smart, safe, and respectful of nature and its hazards”.
I wish your son all the best. I hope his experience is what he is searching for.
I crossed the river in early July (right around the 4th) and it was OK. I’m sure he will make the right decision when the time comes.
Good luck. Enjoy.
-Dan