Loiyangalani, Lake Turkana
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The Road Chose Me Volume 2: Three years and 54,000 miles around Africa
The dusty and small road winds on, and eventually I find my way to the new wind turbine station built in the high hills surrounding the lake. I’m told this station was built in less than a year, which is a huge achievement given how massive it is. There must be hundreds of individual turbines slowly rotating in the wind.
Wind turbines dominate the hills on the side of the lake
The lake on the horizon
When I crest a rise and see the lake for the first time it is an impressive sight – it’s absolutely massive, and is dotted with a few rocky islands. The shoreline is all rock, and extremely barren.
The shoreline is rocky and rugged
Loving the lake views
As I drop down to lake level and continue North on the mostly rocky track I’m staggered to see locals living in this extremely harsh environment. They are living in round huts, and fishing appears to be their main food source. The lake is famous for having the highest density of crocodiles anywhere in the world, though the fishermen are not deterred and wade up to their chests retrieving nets.
I wonder how many of them are killed each year.
The BFG KO2 tires continue to take the abuse well
Rocks and more rocks
The town of Loiyangalani is a literal oasis is the desert, built around a warm spring seeping from the rock. Palm trees abound in stark contrast to the intensely hot and dusty rocky surroundings.
Camping in the oasis at palm shade camp
In the early afternoon a local walks me around the village, showing locals dressed in traditional clothing. He explains there are three main tribes living here who used to fight a lot, but these days every is peaceful.
The land is so harsh and unforgiving many people die of starvation each year, though helpfully an NGO fixed up the water source from the spring so there is ample clean drinking water to go around.
Traditional clothing
A different tribe’s traditional clothing
I believe gas and diesel are available here from drums, though after moving the 13 gallons from the titan into the main Jeep tank which is now full to the brim, I’m confident I have enough to reach my destination.
The town of Loiyangalani
Hut in the desert
-Dan
The terrain is otherworldly!
It sure is, I honestly fell like I’ve driven onto the moon!
-Dan
Spent some time about a decade ago working with the Turkana clans along the Kerio River southeast of Lodwar, thirty (30) or so miles west of Loiyangalani on the west side of Lake Turkana. We constructed drip irrigation systems for the local families. Extremely unforgiving area of Kenya – especially when the rainstorms fill the dry riverbeds, making them uncrossable – even with a 4×4.
The windpower development project is a huge bonus for Kenya, hopefully some of the power is distributed locally to the northerners, and not just all funneled directly to Nairobi for distribution.
Good luck and godspeed.
Hey CB,
Thanks for the interesting background. I passed a survey team who said they will pave the road all the way to Loiyangalani soon.
I imagine it already looks a lot different than it did 10 years ago, and it’s soon to change again!
-Dan
Good Dan..you take is out of this world.really adventurous..
My I know where did you camp at loiyangalanyi? Love the palm trees would love to visit same place.
Thanks Jesse,
It’s called “Palm Shade Camp”. There are a couple of options, everyone says this is the best
Cheers!
-Dan